Ocean Brewing, creative cooking and brewed beer

DINING OUT

A penchant for experimenting with the brewing of beer and ale

triggered the idea conceived by Jonathan Thomas.

The creative cooking skills of his innovative bride Maria, learned

from her mother in their native Italy, clinched the concept. Thus, on

Dec. 8, 1994 Ocean Brewing Company was launched by the resourceful

couple. The quaint little Italian pub bearing huge brewing tanks

behind the extensive bar became an instant success with inviting

sidewalk tables beckoning guests to enter.

Step inside today and discover what has become a lively

restaurant/nightclub. There is an added plus of cocktails and

danceable bands attracting a very hip, young, late-evening crowd who

happily jam the extensive bar area five nights a week, kicking up

their heels to a variety of energizing music. The place rocks often

as late as 2 a.m. The dynamic Thomas’ diligently strive continuously

to stay in step with the times. In fact, it was not too long before

the restaurant was doubled in size. Over the years, following that

amazing feat, the duo accomplished no fewer than four remodelings of

the premises simultaneously embellishing the ambience with

interesting collections of paintings by local artists. The current

attraction of spectacular life-size stallions and wild horses by

Vladamir is a striking example of how visual art complements

epicurean art.

Not the least reason for Ocean Brewing Company’s success, however,

is Maria’s wonderfully imaginative cuisine that reaches steps beyond

Mediterranean fare. By periodically revising the menu with enticing

new recipes she has earned a reputation for one of the most

imaginative lunch and dinner menus of any Italian trattoria in Orange

County. Check the octave of beginnings priced from $5 to $13.50 and

discover blue crab-stuffed Portobello mushrooms presented with

luscious squares of grilled polenta; black and green mussels steamed

with vermouth and scallions atop shoestring potatoes; crisp, tender

calamari legs and rings served with cilantro aioli dipping sauce.

Half a dozen diverse salad creations include a delectably flavorful

Caesar laced with shaved parmigiana. Add to this a spinach combine of

crumbled gorgonzola, granny smith apple warmed with tangy bacon

vinaigrette and know any and all translate to adventuresome palate

pleasers.

Black and green mussels return as one of 10 dinner entrees, these

teamed with chewy linguine in a zesty tomato chardonnay sauce.

Sauteed tiger shrimp in a pinot grigio blend adorn creamy risotto.

Shrimp and scallops tossed with penne pasta are livened with sauteed

broccoli and creamy chardonnay sauce. Raviolis vary nightly along

with quoted dinner specials. And except for paella Valenziana baked

with mussels, chicken, sausage with arborio rice, roasted red bell

peppers, peas and saffron, tabbed at $23.50, entrees are mainly in a

$12 to $17 range. The late crowd especially appreciates the

assortment of pizzas with toppings including sauteed mushrooms,

mozzarella, red onion and marinara; and the blanketing of shrimp,

pesto, pinoli, mozzarella and goat cheese. Innovative sandwiches come

bursting with sashimi grade blackened ahi, baby greens, red bell

pepper, onion and balsamic vinaigrette; and the shrimp BLT gets a

further boost with tangy cilantro aioli. Any one of these hefty

munchables are $12-$15.

Beyond four brewed-on-the-

premises beer and ale choices there are nine imported and local

selections. Another plus is that most of the 20 red and 10 white

wines are available by the glass. A good range of trendy martinis

leads the list of potables, any of which contribute largely to the

excitement generated at this popular dining-entertainment attraction.

* GLORI FICKLING writes restaurant reviews for the Coastline

Pilot.