Royal Khyber is a jewel in South Coast crown

Stephen Santacroce

Dining is for me somewhat akin to reading travel magazines.

Sampling foreign cuisines allows me to mentally transport myself to

exotic lands with a fork and knife (or maybe chopsticks) as my means

of travel. Indian food in particular conjures up vivid sensory

adventures of sight, taste and smells, blending exotic spices to

create subtle and mysterious flavors.

Spices are what first brought the British, French and other

Europeans to the Indian subcontinent beginning in the late 15th

century, and it was this spice trade that helped finance much of

British colonialism. Luckily the British imported Indian cuisine to

their island, and not the other way around.

Flashing forward to this era, the Royal Khyber restaurant in South

Coast Plaza Village has been introducing legions of loyal residents

to the exotic charms of Indian cuisine. The restaurant, which was

originally in a strip mall on Bristol Street, was opened in 1980 by

Arun Puri and his wife, Urmil. Their daughter Shalini actually now

owns the restaurant; however, she is off at college working on a

master’s degree in business administration.

Puri was born in Punjab in northern India and immigrated to the

United States, where he earned a master’s degree in engineering.

While here, he began cooking some of the dishes of his native land

and, after a visit back to India to work in a friend’s restaurant,

opened Royal Khyber.

The restaurant now occupies a prime spot in South Coast Plaza

Village, sandwiched between stalwarts Antonello’s and Gustav Anders.

The interior doesn’t have the exotic look of some Indian restaurants

where silks and tapestries are draped on the walls, but it rather

exudes a quiet formality. Tables are set with crisp white linens and

surrounded by plush upholstered chairs. Wine glasses sparkle at each

setting. Intricate panels taken from the old location have been

accented with gold paint and hung decoratively from the ceiling. The

overall effect is airy and inviting.

Some people consider Indian food too spicy and harsh, but good

Indian food relies not on overpowering spiciness but on delicate

blends of many ingredients to create subtle flavor combinations.

The menu at Royal Khyber features many traditional dishes, and

Puri and his daughter have also attempted to lighten up the cuisine

by stripping dishes of unnecessary fats and oils. Many dishes are

cooked in the restaurant’s tandoors, a conical-shaped clay and brick

oven fired by mesquite coals.

Dinner at Royal Khyber starts with a basket of plain naan, the

traditional Indian flatbread. Naan is cooked by slapping discs of raw

dough on the sides of the tandoor, and allowing the bread to cook

until it falls off the oven wall. The resulting bread is crisp and

charred on the outside and still soft inside. Naan can also be

ordered with flavorings, such as garlic ($4.25), onion and basil

($4.25), or under the name paratha, stuffed with fillings such as

mint or herbs and potato ($3.95).

Curries are, of course, popular in India, and featured in dishes

such as the curried mussel appetizer ($10.95), a plate of plump

mussels steeped in a coconut-infused tomato curry. Our table fought

over the last mussel, and we used plenty of naan to sop up the

remaining broth. Samosas, light pastry pockets stuffed with a savory

filling, are another traditional appetizer. Here they’re available

stuffed with vegetables ($4.95), lamb ($5.70) or shrimp ($7.50).

Another less common dish is the lamb cakes ($10.95); ground lamb

minced with nuts and a variety of spices, including cardamom,

cinnamon and cumin that is then formed into cakes and smoked in the

tandoor. These pungent morsels are served with a light

tamarind-flavored chutney.

Indian dishes are known for their complex sauces, but some of my

favorites are the simpler grilled meats cooked to perfection in the

tandoor. The unique oven combines elements of smoking, grilling and

baking into one device, and the resulting dishes are flavorful and

moist.

The perfect way to sample tandoori cooking is with the tandoori

sampler ($18.95), a combination of boneless chicken pieces, fresh

chunks of fish, minced lamb kebabs and shrimp. All the meats and fish

are marinated in a mixture of yogurt, garlic, ginger and other

spices, before being exposed to the intense heat of the tandoor. The

yogurt marinade coats the meat, adding flavor and helping to seal in

the juices.

Royal Khyber also features a selection of traditional curries,

served with a choice of chicken, lamb or shrimp ($13.95, $14.95 and

$16.95, respectively). Curry heat ranges from mild to hot, and within

that range diners can customize their curries to taste. I like the

vindaloo, a spicy-vinegar based curry from the Goa region that

includes chunks of creamy potato. Tikka masala is a milder curry

flavored with tomato and ginger, with a touch of cream for extra

richness. Although tikka masala is a staple of most Indian

restaurants, I understand that it was actually created in England by

Bangladeshi chefs. A lighter curry is the karahi, another

tomato-based sauce flavored with olive oil, garlic and herbs.

One of the best dishes is listed under the house specialties as

Khyber’s nectar ($17.75). Simply said, this is one of the most

succulent lamb shanks you’ll find in any restaurant. According to the

menu, the dish is cooked for 14 hours in a special clay pot,

simmering in a “secret” sauce that tantalizes with hints of cinnamon,

ginger and cardamom. The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, and the

sauce begs for at least one more order of naan.

Indian dishes are typically served family-style, and Royal Khyber

offers an assortment of side dishes to complement the meal. Even

vegetables are turned into exotic offerings, such as saag paneer

($8.95) spinach that’s stewed to creamy texture and mixed with chunks

of mild cheese, or okra ($8.50) that’s sauteed with onions and spices

until it has a slightly crispy texture.

Raita ($3.25), a condiment made with yogurt and mint, cools off

the palate seared by some of the spicier dishes, and the vinegary

mango chutney ($3.95) cuts through the rich sauces.

Royal Khyber’s wine list features a respectable selection of

American vintages at reasonable prices, and the restaurant also has a

full bar. I find that a cold beer is the best beverage to counter the

exotic spices. A crisp Indian lager known as Taj Mahal did the trick

for me on my last visit.

A smaller selection of the more popular dishes is offered on Royal

Khyber’s lunch menu, and the restaurant also serves Sunday brunch.

Whatever time of day you decide to dine, Royal Khyber will not

disappoint with its selection of authentic Indian cuisine that offers

Orange County diners an exotic glimpse into one of the world’s oldest

and interesting cuisines.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other

Thursday. Send him your comments at sdsanta@-oc-dining.com.