Get your old favorites at Tommy Bahama’s

As summer winds down and everyone gets back to the kind of

“serious” work we do here in Newport Beach, it is important to make

time to check in on old family, old friends and old favorites. It is

also downright vital to sneak in one last vacation if you can.

I visited my old friend Tommy Bahama down at Tommy Bahama’s

Tropical Cafe and Emporium in Corona del Mar in an attempt to do all

of the above at once. And just like with family and friends, some

things changed for better, some stayed the same, some got more

expensive and some just didn’t show up. Funny, just like with friends

and family, with the exception of a wacky aunt or two, nothing got

cheaper either.

In the fading sun of summer, Tommy Bahama’s remains the ultimate

summer experience, though, and you don’t have to work hard to imagine

what could be were you off to the islands -- lazy palm frond ceiling

fans, tiki and bamboo furniture with varying Hawaiian prints, live

steel drums, pineapple accessories galore, big rum punches with pink

flamingo swizzle sticks, waiters and patrons alike decked out in -- I

assume -- Tommy Bahama wear. The only thing missing is the sand and

the dried saltwater on your sun-warmed skin.

Like I said, it’s been a while since we were last here, but

clearly people are not staying away. Tommy’s has a perpetual wait at

both lunch and dinner, but it is usually not too long; 30 minutes

seems to be the average. Thankfully and with a huge sigh of relief,

Tommy’s can solve your waiting to eat blues by providing a pretty

darn nice shopping experience while you wait. This way, if you came

in a tie or, fashion forbid, a solid polo, you can quickly erase all

memory of that gaffe and purchase your entire vacation ensemble then

and there. The total bill will assure you that you have actually left

the mainland.

When we finally sat down, I was very pleased to find that my old

favorites remained my favorites (which is not always true in all

walks of life), from the delicious appetizer of crunchy jumbo

coconut-encrusted shrimp served atop papaya-mango chutney ($13) to

the must-have Dr. Mambo’s plantain combo ($8) -- crispy banana-like

chips dusted with cinnamon sugar and served with a black bean salsa

and sour cream. These plantain chips with a cool blond ale can easily

provide the bulwark of the Bahama experience and serve as a summer

staple any time of year. If money is an issue, leave now.

If not, try the “Cooper Island” crab bisque ($7) -- a rich,

artery-blocking bisque full of lump crab, sherry and cream, and

topped with toasted chili crostini and scallions. Combat the blockage

with the truly awesome South Seas Spinach salad ($13) -- fresh

spinach leaves tossed in a warm bacon balsamic vinaigrette garnished

with a mild and delicious goat cheese, sliced egg and crispy fried

onions. And while I have seen this salad vary in size and scope, it

remains my all-time favorite.

The whole menu reads like a Caribbean cruise with “Salmon St.

Croix ($20),” “Wha’Jamaican Pork($20),” “Sanibel stuffed chicken

($20)” and “Martinique Mahi ($22).” While you assume fish at a

“tropical” restaurant, both the chicken stuffed with alouette cheese

and served with roasted red pepper cream sauce, and the “Island

Cowboy” ($32) -- a char grilled beef tenderloin topped with a port

wine gorgonzola demi-glaze and smothered with roasted garlic served

with honey roasted onion mashed potatoes -- must be ordered by

someone in your party, someone willing to share the major portion of

their meal. (If no one is willing to share, buy another round of Mai

Tais and I guarantee you will get a bite.) These are just a few

selections on a well-rounded and interesting menu. When I win the

lottery, I intend to bring my old friends, make some new friends and

have everyone try everything on the menu and then some.

The presentation of all this glorious food is top notch, too. More

proof of this is the not-necessarily-for-dessert “blondie lokelani”

-- three butterscotch blondies (cousin of the brownie) served warm

with coffee ice cream and drizzled with caramel. Gorgeous to look at,

better to eat. The key lime pie ($7) is an excellent rendition of

this Key West old favorite, tart and sweet. But the ultimate

humdinger is the Barbados Brownie ($9) --a coconut chocolate fudge

brownie topped with vanilla ice cream and served with fresh bananas,

whipped cream, caramel and chocolate sauces. Bon voyage.

If you think I am exaggerating about Tommy Bahama’s ability to

replace your actual vacation (which I am), at least this tropical

cafe promises this is a place where life is “one long weekend.” Not a

bad second.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.