Laguna Village Bistro has whole new look

DINING OUT

In what must be the event of the year, as far as the Laguna Beach

dine-out scene is concerned, two popular restaurateurs have joined

forces.

Karl Zeigler, who turned a tiny takeout stand in Laguna Village,

circa 1978, into the full-scale dining venue it is today, has

partnered with Michael Kang of Five Feet fame to bring a broader,

more sophisticated scope to the ocean-front venue.

On the first of May the name was upgraded from Village Market &

Cafe to Laguna Village Bistro. The menu was revamped and the wine

list expanded. Then the pair collaborated to launch a specialized

catering business which extends to the sprawling Wedding Chapel at

Laguna Village bringing an extensive new area into play for a huge

variety of celebrations.

The menu now features California Beach Cuisine, which translates

to a delicious selection of seafood entrees, much of which

encompasses fresh fish from Hawaiian waters. The denizens gain

further distinction with the innovative embellishments for which Kang

has garnered his culinary reputation.

Appetizers, billed as Bistro Comforts, now receive full play

beginning with a pair of remarkably light crab cakes made with

perfectly seasoned flakes of pure dungeness crabmeat presented with

sides of remoulade and tartar sauces. Tabbed from $7 to $14 these

munchies include a smoked salmon plate, seared ahi, calamari and

Zeigler’s famous nachos constructed with locally made “Halve-a-Chips”

toasted tortillas, white cheddar and choice of chicken, jumbo prawns

or dungeness crab.

More than a dozen entrees, from $13.50 to $32.50 including salad,

vegetable and Asian sticky rice, are augmented with nightly specials.

A beautiful thick cut of blackened Cajun swordfish may be deftly

coated with truffle sauce, a side of mango/papaya chow-chow adds a

tasty dose of hot/sour tang to the mix. Orange roughy may take to a

savory citrus ginger combine. The perennial favorite Channel Islands

abalone is a staple here. They sell up to four and five orders weekly

in season despite the $54 tag. A more affordable alternative is the

tender calamari steak prepared in the same lightly breaded saute at a

reasonable $19.50 as an entree, $9 as a starter.

In addition to sandwiches, burgers and munchies, lunch favorites

include Chinese chicken salad with shredded greens, crisp wonton

skins and macadamia nuts tossed with fresh ginger, sesame oil, rice

vinegar; a seared ahi salad made with raw baby

spinach/mushroom/tomatoes in wasabi soy vinaigrette; the trio salmon

dish of lox, house smoked and poached salmons with dill aioli. Quoted

specials vary daily with such as smoked salmon chowder, mahi mahi

tacos and a fresh catch of the day.

Poised on the sand facing the Pacific with Catalina Island in the

background, Laguna Village Bistro still seems to be something of a

surprise to many locals once discovered. There are comfortable tables

for dining and cocktails on the scenic lower perimeter, abundant

indoor and alfresco seating on the street level with an ocean view

from every angle.

To lure a hungry crowd for breakfast and brunch there is

everything from strawberry crepes, French toast and omelet’s to

lox/bagels/cream cheese, eggs Benedict and more. The pretty

hand-painted flower-filled containers gracing each table are the work

of Zeigler’s charming wife Li-Nan whose wares are on display nearby

and who was the initial chef and inspiration for this delightful art

colony attraction. Make the weekend scene and catch hot jazz which

fills the air at sunset from 4 to 8:30 p.m. Saturdays and during

Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m.

There will be a grand re-opening later this year following further

revamping of menu and environs.

* GLORI FICKLING is a long-time Laguna Beach resident who has

specialized in writing restaurant news and views since 1966. She may

be reached at 494-4710, e-mail ghoneywest@aol.com.