A place for families

DINING OUT

Cantamar Mexican Restaurant on Bolsa Chica Street at Warner Avenue

is like Topsy -- “it just growed from 1981” when it was three simple

take-out items to a double dining room that spans three storefronts.

It is a second career for owners Sally and Ray Gutierrez, who retired

after 32 years from TRW credit agency to open their dream restaurant,

which is now managed by daughter Sylvia.

“Family” is the word that comes to mind for Cantamar, which is

Spanish for “song of the sea.” It could be the first place you first

tasted a tamale as a child or came to love quesadillas. The food is

tex/mex based on recipes from Ray’s mother, which he remembers from

helping her in their El Paso kitchen.

Lunch finds Cantamar the destination for nearby workers, but it is

the evenings that attract families. Sally is there to greet them,

some of whom she first knew as children and who now bring their

children for their first taste of Mexican food.

The chicken quesadilla with mushrooms ($7.95, a la carte $6.25) is

a large tortilla with char-marked bubbles folded over big pieces of

chicken in a green chile sauce with a scoop of fresh guacamole and

chopped tomatoes on the side. The mixed texture and taste could be

shared, with a filling that is generous and good.

The two, foil-wrapped tacos de carne asada ($8.45) were

disappointing, with beef that was lacking in flavor and could have

been more tender. The cilantro, a leafy herb sometimes called Chinese

parsley, helped somewhat by adding a fresh taste. The flavorful

beans, served with it are the good, traditional soupy kind.

Another selection with health in mind is the veggie quesadilla

($6.75), two folded tortillas filled with crunchy steamed, diced

carrots, broccoli florets and zucchini with mild mozzarella. The

fresh vegetables, a bow to California’s influence on the menu, were

different and very good. It can also be had with grilled chicken.

Another choice recommended by a friend is the chile relleno

($6.35), literally translated as “stuffed peppers,” which she said

are the largest she has found. The cheese-stuffed peppers have an egg

batter and are fried until crisp on the outside with melted cheese

inside. A great taste but remember: the closer to the stem, the

spicier the chile.

It’s hard to leave Cantamar without ordering flan ($3.25), a rich

thick, pie-shaped serving of custard with lots of caramel syrup. It’s

one of the best.

Be sure to check out the farthest dining area to the left of the

entrance, where Jesus “Chuy” Vazquez has painted a mural of the Baja

California shoreline with a boulder with the face of Jesus on it.

The food at Cantamar is tex/mex, but the atmosphere is pure

Cal/tex/mex.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com.