Five Newport-Mesa eateries are must-dines

Paul Clinton

Finding top-notch French cuisine here is a cinch, at least

according to Zagat’s most recent top-10 list of Orange County

eateries.

Zagat, widely considered the gold-standard of restaurant guides,

included four local restaurants offering French cuisine on the list

in its guide released in October.

In all, five Newport-Mesa restaurants made the list of the creme

de la creme: “enchanting Newport Beach cottage” Aubergine, Pinot

Provence, Troquet, Pavilion and Pascal.

“We were quite honored,” said Liza Goodell, who owns Aubergine and

Troquet with husband Tim. “We were pretty happy with it, but of

course we want to be No. 1.”

Pavilion, at the Four Seasons Hotel in Newport Beach, serves

“creative Cal-Med,” a blend of California and Mediterranean flavors,

and as such, was the only non-French-style eatery on the list. It

came in at No. 9.

Aubergine finished second on the list behind Napa Rose, the

four-star restaurant at Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel in Anaheim.

Pinot Provence, at the Westin South Coast Plaza, finished highest

among the Costa Mesa restaurants. Pinot Provence is owned by chef

Joachim Splichal, who opened the wildly popular L.A. restaurant

Patina.

Patrons said of Splichal’s Pinot Provence that “the south of

France comes to Costa Mesa.”

Troquet came in at No. 6 on the list. The restaurant, on the third

floor of South Coast Plaza, was described as a “hidden jewel.”

Troquet’s signature truffle-crusted filet mignon and Valrhona

chocolate souffle were described as top drawer, but expensive.

Pascal, the final French-style eatery, rounded out the list at No.

10. The Newport Beach restaurant, owned by Pascal Olhats, is an

homage to Provence that “overcomes its strip-mall location.” Pascal

was dinged for the often “uptight service.”

Other than stirring competition, the guide, called “Zagat Survey,”

provides those who love to dine out with an easy-to-read way to find

just the right restaurant for each mood.

Patrons of the restaurants log on to the Zagat Web site each year

to submit their ratings and comments about the restaurants they

enjoy.

“All our guides are based on consumer input,” Zagat spokeswoman

Michelle Lehmann said. “Everyday diners rate the restaurants.”

In concise capsule reviews of each restaurant, guide creators

compile snippets of quotes from the input they receive that best

represent a consensus view, Lehmann said.

Patrons rate each restaurant in three categories -- food, decor

and service. Each eatery is given a numerical rating in each category

between zero and 30, the higher the better. An average price for one

person -- for an appetizer, entree and drink -- is also given.

Aubergine scored a 27 on food and a 24 on both service and decor.

Pinot Provence was handed a 26 on food and decor, while securing a 25

on service.

In other ratings, Costa Mesa’s Taco Mesa made the guide’s list of

top-10 values in Orange County. It rated at No. 4, behind In-N-Out

Burger, Baja Fresh and Original Pancake House.

* PAUL CLINTON covers the environment, business and politics. He

may be reached at (949) 764-4330 or by e-mail at

paul.clinton@latimes.com.