Vertical offers new menu every night

DINING OUT

The happy news for devotees of the Vertical Wine Bar Restaurant on

Forest Avenue’s Restaurant Row is the added attraction of weekend

brunch to their unique bill of fare.

It’s unique because when this unusual establishment was launched,

creative owner/chef Jonathan Pflueger introduced to Laguna Beach a

novel concept in gourmet dining. In his words, “a new menu every

night progressively designed like a wine list from lightest to

richest ... vertically.”

An instant attraction for the sophisticated wine aficionado,

Vertical nonetheless has a casual ambience that sets a comfortable

pace for all.

Sidewalk tables allow a view of the passing traffic, and the

appealing interior bar inspires conversation among dedicated wine

buffs.

Personable beverage director Jaime Greer, a connoisseur of

boutique wines, is passionate in his devotion to the entire wine

experience. A compatible wine will enhance a dish. Conversely,

opposing flavors, a strong wine with a mild dish or vice versa, means

one taste will be overwhelmed by the other.

Lunch has been discontinued until next spring. Thus the place

opens weekdays at 4:30 p.m. with an intriguing “intermezzo” menu

which is served until 5:30 p.m., when dinner commences.

You’ll discover a range of munchies here: a variety of nuts --

sweet to savory -- interesting salads and such imaginative

presentations as ahi tartare presented with crisp toast points and

livened with whole grain mustard, olive tapenade, capers, chives, red

onions and arugula. Prices start at $1.50 going to $60, $70 and $80

for Sevruga, Osetra and Beluga caviars accompanied with all the

traditional garnishes.

Bearing in mind that every menu is designed daily depending upon

availability of freshest ingredients, you may discover such

imaginative dinner favorites as crispy golden sweetbreads with white

truffle risotto, chanterelle and black trumpet mushroom fricassee;

jumbo sea scallops atop creamy polenta with wilted spinach,

caramelized onion and golden leek threads; Alaskan king salmon with

ginger steamed jasmine rice, sweet pea tendrils, in red miso broth.

Approximate prices range for starters and entrees is about $8 to $28.

The inspired wine menu at this award-winning restaurant is, of

course, equally unique, giving guests the opportunity to savor the

wine that’s best with an individual course. For example, “wine

flights” allow a sampling of three vintages of a similar theme, and

there are servings by the bottle, the glass or the 2-ounce taste.

A quartet of these “flights,” commencing at $10.60 for a

chardonnay, features “three continents of wine” -- various tastes

from France, Australia and the Napa Valley. The California showcase,

at $24, presents a 1999 George de Latour cabernet sauvignon, a 1999

Treana Red and a 2000 Mer Solieil chardonnay.

Now comes this unique weekend brunch from $8 to $18. Rise and

shine to a cocktail-glass appetizer of shrimp/scallop/snowcrab

festooned over horseradish-infused chunky tomato sauce and decorated

with delicate shards of red and green bell pepper, asparagus celery

and carrot. Or sample tiny quail eggs en cocotte with sea urchin,

lobster roe, shaved truffles, chives and toasted brioche.

As omelets go, what could be more creative than the teaming of

asparagus, wild mushrooms, fromage blanc with micro greens in a warm

tarragon vinaigrette sided with crisp French fries. A fascinating

twist on the eggs benedict theme is the combination of fresh ahi atop

white corn bread with stuffed squash blossoms and chipotle-lime

hollandaise. Chef Pflueger’s take on steak tartare utilizes tender

chunks of filet mignon studded with capers, red onions, watercress

with a perfectly poached quail egg stud and for crisp contrast, fried

potato straws.

You may enjoy a delicious sampling of this incredibly creative

cuisine and contribute to a worthy cause tonight when Vertical Wine

Bar hosts a first anniversary reception at the adjacent Diane

DeBilzan Gallery to benefit the Orange County Child Abuse Prevention

Center. Tickets for this event include wines by Robert Mondavi and a

ballet presentation at 6 p.m. by lovely Treva Swersky, who has

performed with the New York City Ballet. Information, 494-5757 or

e-mail didebilzan@earthlink.net.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

specialized in writing restaurant news and views since 1966. She may

be reached at 494-4710; or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.