Zinc Cafe fills a breakfast niche
Stephen Santacroce
When C’est Si Bon closed its Corona del Mar location several years
ago, a void was created for casual diners looking for a unique stop
for breakfast or lunch. The quirky cafe left diners to take breakfast
at chains such as Coco’s and Ruby’s, or to grab a muffin or croissant
at the local Starbucks.
Many diners, myself included, found solace in Laguna Beach at Cafe
Zinc, the charming cafe and market where patrons enjoyed fresh baked
goods, savory egg dishes and unique sandwiches in a relaxing outdoor
setting.
So, naturally, I was thrilled to learn earlier this year that
another Zinc Cafe would be opening in Corona Del Mar, just a few
doors down from the Quiet Woman. Finally, I hoped, there’d be a
choice fitting the quaint upscale village style of the area.
John Saracen, the owner of the Zinc cafes (besides Laguna and
Corona del Mar, there’s one in Solana Beach), got the idea for the
restaurant while studying architecture at Berkeley in the early
1980s. He enjoyed the variety of small street-side cafes that
populated the college town and offered small menus of unique dishes
prepared with fresh ingredients, served in relaxing settings that
fostered lingering and conversation.
John graduated with a degree in landscape architecture, a field he
soon found he enjoyed more as a hobby than a career, and came back to
Laguna. In 1988, he opened the original Cafe Zinc, inspired by his
favorite Berkeley hangout, Cafe Fanny, which was run by renowned chef
Alice Waters, of Chez Panisse fame.
His new store in Corona del Mar is virtually in the dead center of
town, on East Coast Highway between Larkspur and Marguerite. It
occupies a location that had been home to an upscale garden shop and
a high-end auto dealer, among other businesses.
The restaurant exhibits a rustic, understated charm. High
wood-beam ceilings and large picture windows frame the two main areas
of the star. Like its Laguna counterpart, Zinc Cafe is divided
somewhat in two. The right half of the building is occupied by a
market offering candles, soaps and other decorative items. The market
also houses a bar, serving coffee drinks and bakery items, as well as
deli cases filled with prepared salads, sandwiches and other stuff.
The left side of the building features the main dining area, which is
populated by brushed steel and wood tables resting on finished
concrete floors. A large eucalyptus commands attention in the center
of the room, and an outdoor patio bleeds into the parking lot for
enjoyable fresh air dining.
Diners at Zinc order at a counter that fronts the kitchen. Servers
provide prepared baked goods and coffee drinks when you order; other
dishes are brought to your table. So far, Zinc is a popular choice,
and on weekends, be prepared to have to stalk a table if you arrive
after about 9 a.m.
I especially enjoy breakfast at Zinc, ordering from one of three
sections featuring egg dishes, cereals and fruit and baked goods. My
favorite dish is probably one of the simplest: poached eggs. One or
two fresh eggs ($4.50 for one, $4.95 for two) are served atop crisp
slices of buttered toast (the breads are all supplied by La Brea
Bakery or C’est Si Bon). The eggs are poached just right, not too
runny, but not with solid yolks, either, and are sprinkled with fresh
parsley and a twist of fresh ground pepper.
For heartier appetites, there’s a spicy huevos rancheros ($6.95)
served on a crisped tortilla with black beans and a papaya-mango
salsa or a scrambled egg plate ($6.50) with leeks, cream and parsley.
I also like the frittata ($3.95), a dense egg pie studded with
potatoes and artichoke hearts and topped with a refreshing cucumber
salsa.
Creamy oatmeal is also offered, served with both a dried cherry
and nut topping ($4.75) or with seasonal fruit ($5.50). I like the
former; the crunch of the nuts and tart cherries are a nice contrast
to the mild oatmeal.
A more decadent choice is the crispy waffle ($4.95), served with
orange flavored butter and pure maple syrup.
Transitioning from breakfast to lunch, Zinc offers a variety of
European-style sandwiches, prepared salads, daily soup specials and a
selection of small pizzas. John Saracen is a vegetarian, and there
are no meat dishes on the menu, but all but the most devout
carnivores should find something to please their palates.
For a touch of the French countryside, try the mixed vegetable
sandwich (all sandwiches are $6.75). A round rustic loaf is filled
with thinly sliced fennel, radish and green pepper. The crunchy
vegetables are topped with arugula and sliced hard-boiled egg and
dressed with olive tapenade and aioli (French mayonnaise).
Another good sandwich features thin slices of creamy brie on a
crusty baguette topped with arugula and a spread of country mustard,
with a touch of horseradish. The bitter greens balance the rich
cheese, and both are complimented by the zesty spread.
The mini pizzas ($6.95 each) feature some interesting toppings,
such as pesto with roasted peppers and goat cheese. I’m not a fan of
this one. The tart goat cheese spoils the delicate flavor of the
pesto. I like the pizza topped with thin slices of fried eggplant and
marinara sauce.
Food service from the kitchen stops at 4 p.m., but the market is
open until 6 p.m., offering vegetable lasagna, pre-made sandwiches
and a variety of salads for take-out. Salads are all priced at $8.95
per pound, and include a classic caprice salad of tomato, small
marble-sized balls of fresh mozzarella, with basil olive oil
dressing. Or try the roasted root vegetables in a sweet balsamic
vinegar glaze.
For desserts, Zinc Cafe features a daily selection of freshly
baked cakes and tarts, as well as an assortment of cookies and a
creamy rice pudding.
Judging by the success of Zinc Cafe, I’d say that local residents
have been eager for a cafe offering a place to enjoy fresh and unique
food in a setting perfectly suited for a relaxing morning reading the
paper while sipping a hot latte. I know I’ll be a regular, and I plan
to get there early to snag my favorite table.
* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other
Thursday. Send him your comments at sdsanta@oc-dining.com.
All the latest on Orange County from Orange County.
Get our free TimesOC newsletter.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Daily Pilot.