Huntington Beach’s pie haven

DINING OUT

After the turkey and ham have disappeared and the green bean

casserole has been consumed comes the inevitable question, “What’s

for dessert?”

The answer is a great new place on the Beach Boulevard side of

Wal-Mart, on Talbert Avenue in Huntington Beach.

Owned by Susan Markham and her friend Holly Fausett, the pumpkin

pie (whole $10.75, slice $2.75) here is the closest to home-cooked

I’ve found lately. The crust is the flaky, crumbly kind, and the

filling a thick fresh pumpkin -- not too sweet and perfectly spiced.

Heating intensifies the taste.

The place is small -- only three tables -- but take-out is brisk.

It was Holly’s idea to concentrate on pies, since many cooks bake

their own cakes. Friendly co-owner Susan will fix you a great turkey

or roast beef sandwich ($3.75) on a soft, crusty roll filled with

sliced meat and cheese, tomato, lettuce and sprouts when you come by

to select your pastry. But this is primarily a pie place that offers

great variety.

Holly and Susan planned carefully for nearly a year before the

Oct. 25 opening of the Pie Company, their first venture. Besides pie,

there are turnovers ($2), delicious folded squares of flaky crust

filled with fresh or fresh-frozen berries. There are no cans in their

kitchen, which is presided over by baker Luis Sarmiento. Fruits are

in season or fresh frozen; golden delicious apples are available

year-round. Apple pies can be sugar-free, sweetened only by apple

juice, as can the natural raspberry apple, the blueberry apple and

the strawberry apple.

Besides the expected, the Pie Company serves up the unexpected

with clever local names. There’s Boogie Boysenberry, South Coast

Apple Rhubarb crumb, Riptide Raspberry, Life Guard Lemon Cream and

the year-round favorite Pacific Pecan.

Along with the great variety of pies, these friendly owners in

starched whites and caps have some excellent brownies ($1.50),

cookies (2 for $1) and an original creation, Pidos (three for $1),

crisp sugar-sprinkled triangles of pie dough -- a tasty pick-up with

coffee ($1.25), hot chocolate ($1.35) or ice tea.

The All American Pie Company can be a quick lunch, an afternoon

snack or a life-saver dessert for a holiday get-together.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com.