Huntington Beach’s pie haven
DINING OUT
After the turkey and ham have disappeared and the green bean
casserole has been consumed comes the inevitable question, “What’s
for dessert?”
The answer is a great new place on the Beach Boulevard side of
Wal-Mart, on Talbert Avenue in Huntington Beach.
Owned by Susan Markham and her friend Holly Fausett, the pumpkin
pie (whole $10.75, slice $2.75) here is the closest to home-cooked
I’ve found lately. The crust is the flaky, crumbly kind, and the
filling a thick fresh pumpkin -- not too sweet and perfectly spiced.
Heating intensifies the taste.
The place is small -- only three tables -- but take-out is brisk.
It was Holly’s idea to concentrate on pies, since many cooks bake
their own cakes. Friendly co-owner Susan will fix you a great turkey
or roast beef sandwich ($3.75) on a soft, crusty roll filled with
sliced meat and cheese, tomato, lettuce and sprouts when you come by
to select your pastry. But this is primarily a pie place that offers
great variety.
Holly and Susan planned carefully for nearly a year before the
Oct. 25 opening of the Pie Company, their first venture. Besides pie,
there are turnovers ($2), delicious folded squares of flaky crust
filled with fresh or fresh-frozen berries. There are no cans in their
kitchen, which is presided over by baker Luis Sarmiento. Fruits are
in season or fresh frozen; golden delicious apples are available
year-round. Apple pies can be sugar-free, sweetened only by apple
juice, as can the natural raspberry apple, the blueberry apple and
the strawberry apple.
Besides the expected, the Pie Company serves up the unexpected
with clever local names. There’s Boogie Boysenberry, South Coast
Apple Rhubarb crumb, Riptide Raspberry, Life Guard Lemon Cream and
the year-round favorite Pacific Pecan.
Along with the great variety of pies, these friendly owners in
starched whites and caps have some excellent brownies ($1.50),
cookies (2 for $1) and an original creation, Pidos (three for $1),
crisp sugar-sprinkled triangles of pie dough -- a tasty pick-up with
coffee ($1.25), hot chocolate ($1.35) or ice tea.
The All American Pie Company can be a quick lunch, an afternoon
snack or a life-saver dessert for a holiday get-together.
* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have
comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail
hbindy@latimes.com.
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