Christine Carrillo Ever since he can remember,...

Christine Carrillo

Ever since he can remember, 17-year-old Tyler Van Owen had a

passion for the ocean. Whether it arose from the endless trips to the

beach with his mother and siblings as a child or from the inspiration

of two older brothers that defined themselves as surfers, Van Owen

adopted a deep love and respect for the ocean years ago.

So there was nowhere else he wanted to be Sunday morning than in

the water near 44th Street at Newport Beach.

“I couldn’t miss this,” said Van Owen, a Fountain Valley resident.

“I just love riding waves and these are sweet. Dude, that’s what

surfing is about.”

Van Owen, like surfers throughout Southern California, headed to

the beach for one of the strongest northwest swells to hit thus far

this winter.

With the face of the waves reaching 10- to 12-foot heights in some

areas, the ocean gave surfers a plethora of fast, steep waves to

conquer, said Newport Beach Lifeguard Lt. Dave Wenger.

“The waves are really good,” Wenger said. “The entire water

population is surfers ... it’s like an ant farm out there in the

water.”

Newport, which has some stand-out spots, also offers less

experienced surfers a chance to take advantage of the swell in areas

where the surf was reaching 4- to 5-foot heights around 24th Street,

Wenger added.

In both cases, the waves grew in power and height as a result of

the low-tide that hit Newport Beach in the afternoon adding a little

more danger to the fun.

“There’s so many of them out there today and it’s tough ... it’s a

force to be reckoned with,” said Jim Perracetti, a spectator and

retired amateur surfer. “You always worry that some kid is going to

get in over his head.”

Just as water conditions concern Perracetti, they also worry

lifeguards.

By patrolling each stretch of beach about every 15 minutes, they hope to keep injuries to a minimum. And with very few swimmers in the

water due to its 59-degree temperature, the primary focus turned to

the surfers.

“The risk is part of it,” Van Owen said. “I know what I’m doing

... I know what could happen but that’s part of what I love.”

And Perracetti would agree.

“With conditions like this is just doesn’t matter ... you’ve got

to be in the water,” he said.

* CHRISTINE CARRILLO is the news assistant. She may be reached at

(949) 574-4298 or by e-mail at christine.carrillo@latimes.com.