A meal meant to be shared at Thaifoon
Stephen Santacroce
As I review more and more restaurants, I find that there are
different restaurants for different moods. There are romantic
restaurants, formal restaurants, places to hang out with the guys,
restaurants suited for intimate gatherings and those better suited
for larger groups.
Thaifoon, the new Asian eatery in Fashion Island, fits squarely
into the last category. The idea of Scottsdale-based Desert Island
Restaurants CEO Randy Schoch, Thaifoon is a large, bustling
restaurant with a casual atmosphere and an emphasis on sharing.
It’s difficult not to compare Thaifoon to P.F Chang’s. Both
restaurants feature contemporary Asian cuisine that doesn’t claim
authenticity to any single cuisine but instead emphasizes quality
ingredients and fresh flavors.
Thaifoon is hard to miss. The imposing restaurant is in Fashion
Island across from the Daily Grill and Barnes and Nobles. If its size
and striking black sign weren’t enough, flaming tiki torches draw
curious patrons to see what the latest hot spot is all about.
Inside, the decor is fashionable and warm, subtle earth tones are
punctuated by dozens of candles that add cozy touches. The most
striking feature is a glass wall waterfall that stretches the length
of the exposition kitchen, advertising the restaurant name in
striking black script.
Thaifoon doesn’t take reservations for parties less than 10, and
on busy evenings (which seems to be most, at least for now) patrons
are handed a pager that will vibrate when a table is ready. Pager in
hand, it’s off to the bar to enjoy a few cocktails and maybe some
appetizers.
If you’re feeling adventurous, forget the standard martini or
cosmopolitan. Try one of Thaifoon’s specialty drinks, such as the
Thai Mai, a concoction of banana, coconut and vanilla rum mixed with
fresh pineapple, orange and cranberry juices. For $22, you and a few
friends can enjoy one of these tropical treats served in a large
glass bowl with four straws.
I was disappointed that the bar area wasn’t larger. There are a
few bar tables, but I’d like to see more room to enjoy drinks and
appetizers after a hard day’s shopping.
The menu at Thaifoon is loosely based on Thai cuisine, but
observant diners will note influences from other Asian cuisines. As
with P.F. Chang’s, the spices and preparations have been updated to
appeal to a broader range of palates.
I’m a big fan of authenticity, especially after several trips to
Asia. Thaifoon doesn’t make any claims at being the real thing.
Everyone I’ve dined there with has been impressed with the flavor and
freshness of the food. So have I.
Appetizers are a perfect way to get acquainted with the menu and a
great example of the blending of different cuisines.
One of the simplest starters is the edamame ($4.95), a Japanese
dish of steamed soybeans. The beans are steamed in their pods and
tossed with a handful of rock salt. To eat the pea-like beans, you
split the pod by squeezing the ends together to release the tasty
beans.
The soybeans are fun to pick on while sipping cocktails, and they
have the added benefit of being healthful.
A more traditional Thai dish is the chicken Satay ($6.95), strips
of marinated chicken grilled and served with a mildly sweet peanut
sauce.
Siamese spring rolls ($6.95) are crisp egg rolls filled with a
mixture of sweet crabmeat and savory pork. The rolls are served with
lettuce leaves, fresh mint and a sweet and sour chili sauce. The idea
is to wrap a roll in a lettuce leaf with some of the mint and sauce.
My friend Karen doesn’t like the assembly process, but I think the
cool lettuce is a good foil for the crisp egg rolls.
Another dish that features lettuce wrappers is shrimp explosion
($7.95). Here, small rock shrimp are quickly fried and served with a
citrus-chili sauce and some fresh ginger. As with the spring rolls,
some assembly is required.
The barbecued pork ribs ($7.95) glazed in honey and hoisin sauce
are some of the meatiest and tender ribs I’ve had. The meat was
practically falling off the bone. The vinegary slaw served with them
cuts the richness of the meat perfectly.
The young staff at Thaifoon is friendly and helpful, eager to
explain menu items or offer suggestions.
The dishes are served family style, and it’s obvious that the food
at Thaifoon is meant to be shared. I like going in larger groups so I
can sample many different dishes.
The entrees are arranged in categories by beef and pork, chicken
and duck, seafood, and noodles. Firebird chicken ($8.95) pairs
marinated chicken strips, tossed with garlic and cilantro, and fried
rice. I was impressed with how flavorful this simple-sounding dish
was. All of the ingredients complimented each other while maintaining
distinct flavors.
There were very few dishes I didn’t like at Thaifoon, although
some leaned toward the ordinary, such as the pepper steak ($12.95),
which, despite claiming to be made with filet mignon, was a bit
chewy. The sauce for this dish was a bit too mild, and I had trouble
tasting the cracked pepper that was supposed to coat the meat.
On the other hand, the lemongrass-crusted halibut ($12.95) is
easily the star of the menu. A halibut fillet is seasoned and lightly
breaded, and then fried and served with a sweet chili sauce. The fish
had a light, crunchy crust that surrounded a moist melt-in-your-mouth
filet, and the sauce had just the right touch of sweetness without
being cloying.
It’s difficult to pair wine with most Asian cuisines; the spices
can overpower or conflict with a lot of varietals. The best wines to
accompany spicy Asian fare are sweeter whites, such as Rieslings or
Gewurztraminer.
When I ordered a Gewurztraminer by the glass on a recent visit, my
server informed me they were out of it, but wisely recommended a
local Riesling they were also pouring. By the bottle, Thaifoon offers
an adequate list of mostly California wines.
One thing those with a sweet tooth won’t find at Thaifoon is a
dessert menu. Instead, the restaurant serves up a complimentary small
scoop of green tea or coconut ice cream. If you’re in the mood for
other some sweets, save some time for a stop on the way home.
In addition to being open for lunch and dinner, Thaifoon also
offers their complete menu for take-out. I ordered some food to go,
and when I got home found that I had been given the wrong order. When
I returned to exchange the food for my order, the manager also handed
me several gift certificates for my trouble. A nice touch.
Thaifoon seems to have a winning formula of atmosphere, moderate
pricing and fresh, flavorful food with a wide appeal.
Judging by the initial crowds, it’s safe to say that Thaifoon will
be around for a while. It has attracted shoppers looking for a food
break as well as destination diners eager to enjoy the restaurant’s
unique blend of Asian-influenced cuisine.
* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other
Thursday. Send him your comments at sdsanta@oc-dining.com.
All the latest on Orange County from Orange County.
Get our free TimesOC newsletter.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Daily Pilot.