Romeo Cucina is more than just pizza

DINING OUT

When Romeo Cucina debuted here more than 10 years ago, a new

dimension in Italian dining was introduced to Laguna Beach.

Commencing with trendy avant-garde decor carried out in warm earth

tones, the handsome new restaurant offered a wide variety of pizzas

from a huge brick-fired oven behind the capacious entry bar.

Beyond the large dining room was cocktail bar, and at the rear,

two appetizing deli cases offering a wealth of imported Italian

groceries and fragrant baked-on-the-premises breads.

In conjunction with Romeo Cucina’s 11th anniversary in March 2003,

however, enterprising principal Vittorio Romeo promises a romantic

new look.

Deli cases will be replaced with cozy booths and banquettes.

Draperies and ceiling swags of imported Italian fabrics will add a

luxurious enhancement.

The same elegant Italian- and Grecian-style art will continue, of

course, to complement the elegant setting.

What will also remain constant is the enticing Mediterranean menu,

which brings “the magic if Italy right to your table,” the cozy

sidewalk patio, which invites alfresco seating with a view of the

traffic on Broadway, and the captivating background music, which sets

a spirited pace.

Commencing with insalate and antipasti priced from $5.95 to

$10.95, you will find such temptations as a marinated shrimp,

scallops, calamari with hearts of palm, arugula, tomatoes; grilled

polenta with porcini and wild mushrooms, deep fried finfish and

shellfish with a side of spicy tomato sauce.

Pizzas run an intriguing gamut with such tempting toppings as

eggplant, sundried tomatoes, goat cheese, mozzarella, roasted peppers

and garlic; mussels, clams, mushrooms, prosciutto and mozzarella;

shiitake and wild mushrooms, oysters and fontina cheese. The $10.95

and $11.95 tags further include a calzone and two focaccias.

Fifteen pastas in a $12 to $15 range include capellini tossed with

seafood in zesty cream sauce, bowties with smoked salmon, capers,

caviar and mascarpone; penne pasta with grilled chicken breast, pine

nuts and mushrooms; shallots seasoned with olive oil, garlic and

basil.

I secondi translates to entrees. At $15.95 to $19.95, Romeo Cucina

offers such sumptuous selections as grilled pork chops in spicy

peppercorn sauce complemented with fettuccine, porcini mushrooms and

truffle oil; veal scaloppine sauteed with mushrooms in tomato sauce

with spinach and potatoes; ossobuco with mixed vegetables atop

fettuccine; and cioppino lavishly laced with shellfish, swordfish and

vegetables.

Aficionados of salsa, samba and assorted Latin rhythms will not

want to miss Saturday nights here starting at an early 8:30 p.m.

That’s when the spacious parquet floor is cleared to make room for

dance enthusiasts flaunting their sensually hot terpsichorean

techniques to the melodious Ivan Marcello band.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.