French in atmosphere, tantalizing in taste

DINING OUT

When it comes to elegant dining, French 75 Bistro and Champagne

Bar is a pinnacle of the Orange County restaurant scene.

This is not French cuisine, as the name seems to imply. The

concept, as esteemed general manager Phil Roberson says, is “An

American view of French restaurants circa World War II.”

A highlight of famed Laguna Beach Art Center in the heart of town,

French 75 was launched on St. Patrick’s Day, 1998 and is the flagship

venue of David Wilhelm’s renowned Culinary Adventures, which caters

such local charitable events as those at the Laguna Art Museum.

A Garden Patio seating 50 fronts the entry of this handsome

three-level establishment, where the main dining room and cocktail

lounge come alive with piano and drum rhythms Tuesday through Sunday.

The spacious bar, topped with a fascinating painted ceiling titled

“The Champagne War Between the Monkeys and the Cherubs,” is the

unique creation of Laguna Beach artist Russ Butler, who used local

children as models.

Turn left at the front door and find the cozy Left Bank adorned

with movie memorabilia from the 1930s and ‘40s. Photos of such

luminaries as Jean Harlow, Clark Gable, Judy Garland and Billie

Holiday are whimsically autographed to the acclaimed Wilhelm.

The theme continues upstairs, where walls are lined with vintages

from around the world and an intimate little area replete with

outdoor entry assures ultimate privacy for romantics and celebrities.

It takes more than ambience, however, to assure a memorable dining

experience and here French 75 shines again. Gracious manager Nadine

M. Hotong is one reason for the impeccable service of such attentive

staff as joyful waitress Melissa, who describes Chef David

Henninger’s recipes with such enthusiasm one can almost taste the

dish before it is served.

Just hearing the ingredients in a butter lettuce salad -- the

flavors of Roquefort, toasted almonds and Dijon vinaigrette --

immediately tickle the taste buds

She similarly assures the succulence of grilled port tenderloin, a

trio of 2-inch thick slices, wild mushrooms, creamy polenta, fava

beans and corn coulis accompanying. Likewise, the provocative

pesto-crusting of fresh sea bass escorted with white corn polenta and

Provencal vegetable ragout.

Melissa’s equal excitement over the irresistible dessert selection

-- hot chocolate souffle with Grand Marnier chantilly cream, warm

apple tarte tatin with caramel sauce and crusty hazelnut brittle is

yet another temptation.

Prices are commensurate with quality and service. Starters are $8

to $18, entrees $19 to $33, desserts $6 and $8.

On Jan. 15 of this New Year, French 75 Bistro and Champagne Bar is

presenting “The Wines of Niebaum Coppola,” a lavish five-course feast

starting with passed appetizers and red and white wines and

continuing with three courses and dessert, each with appropriately

complementing vintages. The cost is $99 plus tax and gratuity.

* GLORI FICKLING is a long-time Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.