The Cottage is a dining landmark

DINING OUT

Among the handful of our town’s landmark dining destinations, The

Cottage at North Coast Highway is the one remaining most

architecturally intact.

Constructed in 1917 as a private home with a sweeping Oriental

roof and lush gardens, the charming residence was first opened to

diners in 1938 as the Laguna Vista Cafe, which was followed almost 20

years later by the Pancake Cottage.

In 1964, the late Harry Moon, a dedicated resident, launched The

Cottage as it is today, using some of the original interior artifacts

found stashed in a garage, including the solid oak front door and

leaded glass sideboard doors.

Also from out of the past are fascinating vintage photographs of

old-time Laguna Beach and entryway theater seats from our original

40-year Ocean Avenue Playhouse.

The current principal, charming Jennifer McCaulley, who took over

at the new millennium, has happily kept the popular family-style menu

intact and maintained the gracious services of 13-year-plus employee

Peter Martinez as manager. In addition, extensive breakfast

selections are a continuing staple, as is the popular “Sunday-style

brunch” available daily, featuring half a dozen variations of eggs

Benedict complemented with fresh fruit and a glass of champagne or

juice.

Dining at The Cottage translates to delightful family repasts

served in a choice of inviting settings. Past the central dining area

is a warming fireside setting, and there’s window seating overlooking

verdant gardens for refreshing alfresco enjoyment. The affordably

priced dinner menu commences with a trio of appetizers, most enticing

a luscious saute of mushrooms and artichoke hearts livened with fresh

oregano, garlic and sherry. Half a dozen creative salads include

traditional Caesar, Chinese chicken and tostada versions priced from

$3.95 for the signature Green Goddess to $10.95 for a hearty

fisherman’s temptation lavished with shellfish, avocado and greens

tossed with tasty Russian dressing.

Beyond nightly specials are a quintet of pastas served with shaved

Romano cheese and crusty garlic bread and an octave of other tempting

entrees, all priced from $10.95 to $19.95. For dedicated carnivores

come fire-roasted rack of lamb, succulent prime rib, charbroiled

filet mignon plus delicious center-cut bone-in pork chops glazed with

apples and mango and tender chicken breast in a garlic/olive oil

saute of mushrooms, capers, spinach, Roma tomatoes and artichoke

hearts.

Seafood aficionados will find Maryland crab/salmon cakes,

herb-crusted Pacific sea bass and succulent scampi, the latter also

offered in combination with charbroiled filet mignon. All dinners are

prefaced with a generous bowl of soup du jour or a large Green

Goddess salad and whole-grain rolls baked in house. Each dish is

escorted with a colorful melange of al dente vegetable and rice,

garlic-mashed or roasted potatoes each garnished with a rosy tomato

swirl.

Early bird dinner specials have always been popular 5 to 7 p.m.

weekdays at $10.95. And of course, the menu for small fry continues

with such as linguini, fettuccine, burgers, grilled cheese and

chicken strips for $5.95.

An interesting and affordable selection of California varietal

wines is another Cottage plus, starting at $5 by the glass, $17 per

bottle.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.