Mario’s Fiesta Maya, a trip down memory lane

DINING OUT

A native Californian will always feel comfortable in a Mexican

restaurant -- it’s our heritage. A nostalgic restaurant like Fiesta

Maya recalls our childhood -- the first place our parents took us

when we began to eat solid food. Opened nine years ago by Mario and

Elisa Valenzulla, it has grown up along with Beach Boulevard among

changing neighbors -- it’s now between a Howard Johnson Motel and

Mario’s tiny deli below Warner Avenue.

I love to begin a meal here with the big warm platter Chef Manuel

Ayala puts together of Antojitos (appetizers as “little whims”) for

the Fiesta Grande ($9.79), centered with nachos, really thin tortilla

chips, cheese and guacamole with hot chile pepper slices. Fanned out

around this are triangles of cheesy quesadillas and tiny taquitos

filled with shredded beef and chicken, with a dozen spicy chicken

drumettes at each end.

According to the owners’ son Mariel, who tends the small bar, a

popular selection is Shrimp a la Diabla ($13.49) with a hot and spicy

green sauce made with sour cream and wine.

I chose the chicken fajitas ($8.50), large chunks of marinated

white chicken tossed with al dente red and green bell peppers and

juicy tomatoes, served on a large warm platter with beans, rice, a

generous serving of guacamole and pico de gallo. It was a dish

perfumed with spices and splashed with color.

Carne asada ($8.25) was also on special -- the same combination,

except there were well-seasoned pieces, sliced thin -- some tender,

some bordering on firm to tough. It is the flavor and generous

servings that distinguished Fiesta Maya.

A good flan ($2.89) is always my dessert choice. Here it is firm

with only a little brown sugar syrup and a big dab of whipped cream.

Everywhere you look are souvenirs brought back by owners Mario and

Elia from their many trips to Mexico. It’s the colorful clutter that

makes you feel so much at home -- a child again on your first

restaurant expedition.