Plenty of reasons to be jolly

DINING OUT

Another oldie and goodie on the local dining scene is The Jolly

Roger, with roots that hark back to 1950 when Bob and Jack Guyer

launched this popular restaurant opposite Main Beach on Coast

Highway. Still family owned under astute direction of personable Ross

Bartlett, the inviting interior is warmed by the same copper-hooded

rock fireplace of yore, while the homey decor is constantly

refurbished. A stained-glass sailboat divider concealing the kitchen

is a refreshingly recurring theme noted in paintings and artwork.

Shiny lacquered parquet table tops, frosted glass chandeliers and

colorful striped window valances add to the comfortable ambience in

both the central dining area and the intimate rear room which invites

a leisurely experience.

Here you will discover an immensely expansive menu of breakfast,

lunch and dinner favorites at truly affordable prices, plus daily

blackboard specials that are even more impressive bargains.

Complimentary repasts for the small fry on occasional Saturdays, for

instance, and roast prime rib dinners on some weekends are examples

of how Bartlett attracts families who enjoy frequent dining forays

made possible by these budget-pleasing tariffs. Perusing the

extensive four-page menu tells the story best as there is something

to please virtually every taste. With all items available any hour of

the day, it is understandable why Jolly Roger is further appealing.

Beyond the enormously extensive breakfast selection served all day,

omelets are geared to morning and evening appetites with such

embellishments as vegetables/cheddar cheese, mushroom/spinach,

sausage/cheese/onion plus the intriguing “A.B.C. & T” combo of

avocado/bacon/cheese & tomato.

Entree salads range from Oriental chicken and shrimp/avocado to

traditional Cobb and Caesar styles. A dozen and a half burgers and

sandwiches are served with the best crispy, skinny French fries in

town. And when you want to go south-of-the-border, Senor Jolly cooks

up quesadillas, burritos, chorizo and eggs and absolutely great fish

tacos. Commence with appetizers, which run a gamut from chili to

buffalo wings to chicken quesadillas to French onion soup. Check

poultry and pasta delights and find garlic chicken marinara topping

angel hair pasta. There is a Hawaiian style teriyaki chicken sided

with chunky vegetables and potatoes. Even old standby spaghetti and

meatballs await.

Seafood specialties include fish & chips, fried shrimp and grilled

salmon basted with a sweet mustard dill sauce. Down-home American

cooking is again displayed via liver and onions with bacon, grilled

pork chops atop country gravy, meatloaf with mashed potatoes and

gravy and top sirloin with fried onions. Especially impressive is the

chunky, perfectly al dente vegetable melange accompanying most

entrees sided with a choice of potatoes or rice and delicious slabs

of buttery garlic-cheese French baguettes. For an additional $1.99

one may order soup, perhaps navy bean or French onion, or a huge

salad of mixed greens, so delicious with the savory Italian dressing

or your preferred choice.

Now what is more enticing a conclusion to all-day, anytime

indulging whether for singles, couples and families, than what comes

to light on the menu’s third page. For the kid in most of us come

yummy sundaes, sodas, shakes, fruit pies, ice creams and the decadent

hot fudge mountain cake heaped with ice cream and lavished with

whipped cream. Then, for grown folk in a celebratory mood, dinner may

be enhanced with one of the thoughtfully selected wines served by the

glass or bottle or an imported or domestic beer. As for price

structure, commencing with appetizers from $3.99, most dishes are in

the $8 range with a top of $13.99 for the teriyaki steak & fried

shrimp duo featured with all the trimmings. Bon Appetite.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.