A new experience at Taste of China

DINING OUT

Sometimes, it is disappointing to return to a favorite dining place

to find a new owner and menu.

This has happened at Taste of China. There are, however, a few

changes that could bring this restaurant, hidden in the corner of the

mini-mall, to its former popularity.

The simple, attractive dining room is given visionary space by a

mirrored wall. The glass topped booths and tables have fresh flowers

and a real canary sings in the background.

Attentive server, Lucy Wang, is quick with the menu.

From the Family Dinners ($11.95 to $18.95) we chose the Deluxe

($11.95) which begins with a choice of hot and sour or egg flower

soup.

We selected the egg flower soup. The golden chicken broth, thick

with egg-white strands, is hot and warming on this winter night. This

is followed by the appetizer plate -- a folded, fried wonton skin

that is overcooked and dry and can’t be redeemed, even by the

flavorful creamy filling.

Disappointing also is the crab Rangoon, which substituted what

seemed like chicken for crab filling.

Driest of all is the foil-wrapped chicken. Usually a moist mix of

soy and ginger with pieces of chicken, here it’s tasty but devoid of

additional sauce.

From the eight entrees we selected cashew chicken, a mix of

crunchy water chestnuts, carrot cubes, celery, chicken and some

cashews. The dish, served family style, mixes the nuts with the

vegetables giving them a good, nutty taste superior to some

restaurants that just top the dish with cashews.

Chef Zang grew up in China where his family owned a restaurant. He

learned the art of seasoning and presentation well, but he tends to

overcook some dishes.

Server Lucy does the moo shu pork tableside, which is always fun

to watch. She deftly spreads the tortilla-like skins called,

“doilies,” with pungent plum sauce and spoons on a mix of shredded

Napa cabbage, bamboo shoots and green onions, folding each into a

neat bundle open at the top.

For additional piquancyd more sauce.

Manager Eilene Shue cruises the dining room, speaking to diners,

greeting regulars by name and inquiring if they want the “usual.” She

says her favorite dish is the spicy beef on fresh, steamed spinach.

Taste of China was bought by John Hung of San Francisco in

January. Although the name’s the same, the restaurant has yet to come

into focus and recapture the juicy succulence of past preparations.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com.