New cafe on the scene is a treat

DINING OUT

The latest independent entry on the Laguna Beach restaurant scene is

Cafe Vienna, a breakfast, lunch, dinner venue launched late last year

on the site of a former medical building in South Laguna. While still

a secret to many locals, it has become a favorite for some of the

steady clientele of owner Ferdinand Lettner’s other long-time

favorite Heidleberg Cafe located on the street level of the Village

Faire Shoppes in the heart of town.

Credit for much of this newfound popularity should be given to

charming Claudia Frey who continues to ply her considerable talents

at the Heidleberg while taking the evening helm at the Continental

themed Cafe Vienna. Here is where she bustles busily after

Heidelberg’s 4 p.m. closing, taking orders, serving dinners, pouring

wine and jockeying the impressive 4-spigot Cappuccino machine.

Enter Cafe Vienna on the street side facing Coast Highway traffic

which leads into a perimeter dining area fronting the unpretentious

main dining room, perfect for local artists. Here are found a

selection of wines and beer plus tempting cases of pastries and

cookies are on display, the latter from Heidelberg’s on-site bakery

from which also come the baskets of wheat and white breads greeting

patrons as they are seated. Guests may also enjoy dining alfresco on

balmy days and evenings at a side entry adjacent to the ample parking

lot.

While a mere half dozen entrees are offered at dinner along with

as many salads, the variety is diverse. Beyond traditional Viennese

wiener schnitzel and chicken cordon bleu, New Zealand rack of lamb is

the choice for which steadfast Lagunan’s often return. Enthusiastic

local proponents of this dish are Dino and Diana, originally from

France and their South African friend Pierre. At a top price of $17,

the lamb is roasted with thyme / red wine demi-glace and served with

roasted potatoes and vegetables. Starting at $8.95, there are big,

round spinach and cheese raviolis in a creamy sun-dried tomato sauce,

add $3 for a ring of butterflied garlic shrimp. At $12, comes a huge heap of angel hair pasta crowned with grilled chicken breast in a

sauce of sun-dried tomatoes, basil and garlic, as well as creamy

mushroom chicken with braised red cabbage and roasted potatoes.

Salads are available in small and large sizes. The house creation of

mixed greens at $3.95 and $5.95 respectively combines tomatoes,

cucumber and mushrooms, a dollar more for a lavish sprinkling of

briny feta cheese.

Available at lunch in the same price structure are the schnitzel,

pastas and chicken entrees along with several salads and soup of the

day. Create a custom sandwich for $5.95 with the option of croissant,

baguette or 9-grain bread and a selection of black forest ham, roast

turkey, prosciutto, white tuna as well as Swiss, provolone,

mozzarella and American cheeses. Lettuce, tomato, Dijon mustard, mayo

and pickles accompany.

At breakfast the Continental menu commences with inviting

croissants filled with ham and melted cheese. These start at $3.75

going to $6.95 with Black Forest ham and scrambled eggs. The same tab

for a combo of mushrooms, spinach, red pepper, tomatoes and eggs, $1

more with smoked Norwegian salmon. These are in addition to omelets,

bagels, assorted egg preparations, waffles, pancakes, muesli and

fresh fruits. Besides exotic teas and hot chocolate, the dozen

delectable coffees range from cafe Vienna, mocha, royal and turbo to

cappuccino, espresso and cafe au lait, starting at $1.25 for a single

cup to $3.30 for a double, depending on choice.

* GLORI FICKLING is a long-time Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.