Sunday brunch at The Loft is luscious

DINING OUT

Enter the magnificent Montage Resort and Spa for the newly

inaugurated Sunday champagne brunch buffet and you will be directed

downstairs where a fantastically fabulous feast awaits. Downstairs

you ask? The anomaly becomes clear after you scan the classically

beautiful setting that awaits beyond a bountiful array of

artistically laden buffets wafting fragrant aromas of freshly baked

pastries.

We are looking down to the splendiferous sight of a sun-splashed

ocean framing verdant grounds, swaying palms, shimmering swimming

pool and spa. The Loft, indeed a lofty site, is the definitive

setting for the Sunday feast impeccably conceived by astute banquet

director Tim Stutz and enterprising executive chef Jonathan Pflueger.

Flanking the luminous line-up of sparkling, goblet-laden central

tables, there is window seating for an unobstructed seaside view and

private booths swagged with diaphanous drapes for a more intimate

gourmet experience. Where does one start with so numerous a selection

of breakfast, lunch and dinner taste sensations from which to choose?

Take a little time perusing everything before commencing your feast

because there are delicious surprises at every turn no matter where

you start.

An innovative example among chilled choices is the tomato, bufala

mozzarella appetizer posed atop a succulent Portobello mushroom, a

novel twist from the usual toast round. This is but one of assorted

salads, condiments and dressings at the ready to inspire individual

culinary creativity. Wonderful imported cheeses comprise another

station where gourmet selections are complemented with truffle

oil-roasted macadamias, spiced hazelnuts and complementary wines.

Here creative chef Starr Cornwell will lovingly adorn your plate with

an appetizing assortment along with a pouring fine port, Madeira or

sherry. Augmenting the pasta bar are fresh scallops, mussels,

calamari and shrimp sauteed to order as well as tomatoes, onions,

parmigiana and much more to add as you please.

Perfectly roasted rare loin of lamb is sliced as you watch and

served with creamy risotto. This was among such every-changing

entrees as tender turkey breast, rack of veal and beef tenderloin.

Omelet’s, of course, are prepared with every ingredient your heart

desires and hurried to your table should you prefer not to wait as

the chef wields his considerable skills.

Seafood aficionados will find themselves in fish heaven when they

see the mountain of Alaskan king crab legs and the array of smoked

salmon, sturgeon to enjoy with cream cheese, capers and assorted

other delicacies to say nothing of blackened rare ahi filet studded

with sesame seeds, sliced in as many delicate rounds as you wish.

When it comes to the dessert display, pure artistry comes to mind.

Beyond the cascading chocolate fountain sided with plump strawberries

and a picturesquely staggering selection of almost two dozen

mouth-watering pastries, tortes and cakes ready to tantalize the most

jaded taste buds.

Whether your choice is to dress in a manner befitting all this

splendor, (which CEO Alan Forest aptly describes as “easy going

elegance”) or to “beach it” in totally casual clothing, attentive

service is a promise. Laguna Beach foodies should recognize such

courteous waitpersons as gracious Miguel, among several local

residents who add to the warm hospitality proffered under direction

of Loft manager, Daniel J Murray. Those sparkling crystal stems are

continuously refilled with premium champagne and freshly squeezed

orange juice. Crisp daffodil-color-streaked napkins and polished

silverware are instantly replaced following every return from the

buffet and all the while you will be charmed by lyrical harp strains.

Tariff for this extraordinary experience is $60, $22 for 5 to 11 year

olds. Reservations are imperative as the brunch understandably has

been solidly booked since launching in early March.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.