Lagunans have yet to discover Serra’s

DINING OUT

I wonder how many locals are aware that right here in lovely Laguna

Beach we have an authentic Turkish restaurant that also boasts one of

the liveliest nightclubs in this or any other town.

Serra’s Bar and Grill, on Laguna Canyon Road opposite our

world-renowned Festival of Arts, must be the best kept secret locally

as the hip young crowds observed enjoying night time revelry here

seem to be mainly from outside our area. Many Lagunans are missing

something terrific by way of dining, dancing and delightful service

teamed with surprisingly affordable prices because this scintillating

cabaret rocks nightly.

I’ll start with the setting: a block-long bar inside the front

entry leads to four-some tables surrounding the dance floor, each

illuminated with a little ruby-beaded lamp. Heavy floor-to-ceiling

drapes offer inner privacy, separating the dining room from a

perimeter alfresco deck which is usually jammed with an enthusiastic

smoking contingent. A pool table at the rear adds another dimension.

Adjacent to this an upholstered bench fronting a trompe l’oeile wall

painted with Turkish terrain and adorned with exotic artifacts offers

additional seating.

The enticing selection of assorted entrees runs a delicious gamut

of Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Pastas, seafood, poultry, meat and

vegetarian dishes are priced from $12.50 for grilled chicken to

$18.95 for jumbo shrimp sauteed with garlic and spices. Instantly

tantalizing taste buds are heady aromas of garlic, cumin and oregano,

which season such dishes as perfectly broiled lamb chops modestly

tabbed at $17.95. The savory quintet of tender morsels are

accompanied with flavorful basmati rice, a whole grilled tomato, bell

pepper strips, delicate potato slices and a perky oregano sprig.

Chicken comes in five flavorful styles, herb-grilled, curried,

teriyaki seasoned, as shish kebabs and with mushrooms in a creamy

white wine sauce.

The list of pastas starts with Turkish ravioli in yogurt sauce

going to scampi in Serra’s tangy tomato sauce. Combination dinners

for two or more include a cold vegetarian combo at $24.95 consisting

of feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, olives, humus, tarama, dolma,

eggplant and barbunya. Hearty platters for dedicated carnivores are

generously heaped with such as chicken and lamb kebabs, mixed

seafood, lamb chops, rice and vegetables. These come in at $38.95 and

$44.95 depending upon individual selections.

Scan the menu of provocative appetizers and find such warm and

cold delicacies as kofte, tasty plump meatballs; barbunya, flavorful

red bean salad; pastirma, a spicy pastrami; and tarama, salmon caviar

dip. The ample servings are tabbed from $3.95 to $11.95, the latter called “Serra’s shrimp delight.” To savor a diverse selection, the

chef will happily indulge adventuresome sharing by constructing a

picturesque platter of your personal choices.

Variations on the dinner menu are augmented with nightly table

tent specials. Tropical fruit cocktails include Mangoritas, Red Remy.

Vanilla kiss and Cow Killer with “everything in it but the cow.”

Martini aficionados, moreover, will be delighted with mixologist

Onur’s brim-full presentation, artfully carried to your table by such

caring waiters as dedicated Christopher who was exceptionally patient

in explaining many of these adventuresome dishes.

A night at Serra’s really takes off, though, when the disco

commences around 9 p.m. Lovely Serra Gokee herself, when not catering

her many parties, spins a huge variety of the exotic music that

constantly inspires the compatible crowd to strut their stuff and

reach out for anyone initially too shy to participate. With a 9th

anniversary celebration anticipated on April 28th, this fascinating

night club is about to be cloned at a new Studio City site. It is

Serra’s thoughtful way of accommodating the many fans who have been

traveling that arduous distance to relish the same exciting ambience

which started here in our very own home town in 1994.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.