Extraordinary food at Kung Pao Bowl

DINING OUT

Kung Pao Bowl -- such an ordinary name for such an extraordinary

Chinese restaurant. Open the door to step into a kaleidoscope of

vibrant green and deep plum colors specially mixed at Home Depot. The

walls and ceiling are splashes of color with humorous animal outlines

all done by Roland Crump, the artist who also created Small World for

Disney.

Vinyl booths encircle the room filled with black lacquer chairs

and clothed-tables. Gracious co-owner May Lin leads you to a table to

select from a menu of wok’d preparations from classic Mu-Shu to rich

creamy Walnut Shrimp. There are 40 lunch specials ($5.25 to $7.25

served 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), served with soup, appetizer and rice, that

are like ‘get acquainted’ entrees to the larger a la carte servings.

Mu-Shu ($7.50, a la carte) is the classic Chinese wrap of four

thin pancakes filled with shredded cabbage, onions and a choice of

chicken or pork served with a wonderful dark thick plum sauce with a

spike of lemon for piquancy. The best way to eat Mu-Shu, for me, is

to pick up the wrap, open one end and add a little sauce. It’s sort

of messy but what a taste! It os served with steamed rice.

A la carte servings are large enough to share and eat family

style. One dish everyone will have to have a taste of is the Walnut

Shrimp ($13.95.) The dish has more than a dozen fat, tender shrimp

coated with a lemon mayonnaise sauce and tossed with loads of toasted

walnut halves.

Chef Ronnie Chin is a marvel with sauces. Before coming to Kung

Pao Bowl he was chef in a Mandarin restaurant in Beverly Hills.

Kung Pao Bowl is just the surprise you will want for this Mother’s

Day. A beautiful and unusual setting with a special menu

($12.95-$15.95). First there’s a soup choice, then an appetizer plate

of crispy fat egg rolls, mozzarella-stuffed wontons and butterfly

shrimp. There is variety with 10 entree choices that include Kung Pao

Three Delights, beef with broccoli, orange chicken, sauteed fish and

more. Then the finale with the special glazed apple dessert.

Kung Pao Bowl, which opened about six weeks ago, occupies a double

store front on the southwest corner of Goldenwest Street and Edinger

Avenue. It is co-owned by May and John Lin and their partner Judy

Newborn.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com