Five Feet epitomizes unique dining

DINING OUT

When Michael Kang launched his unique restaurant on Glenneyre Street

Downtown circa 1985 he introduced to Laguna Beach an exciting new

concept in dining. The idea of presenting elegant dishes against a

rough hewn setting was totally innovative. But with his architectural

background and penchant for creative cooking, Five Feet featuring

“California Chinese” cuisine, was meticulously conceived. I well

recall him explaining, as I watched his construction of the interior

in those early days, that the name was inspired by the position of

the building five feet above sea level and by his personal and family

statures.

Whatever, the concept immediately caught on and Five Feet became

an instant attraction to Southland foodies who continue to patiently

wait outside for tables on busy weekends. It is fascinating for first

timers upon entering to note color splashed faux marble tables

adorned with black and white china, a scarlet rose petal enhancing

each plate, water goblets sprouting black chopsticks and white

napkins, a slender crystal vase holding a spray of delicate vanda

orchids. Illuminating each setting is an industrial light suspended

from the primitive open beam ceilings which expose huge air

conditioning systems. Raw concrete walls are a foil for an ongoing

series of colorful photos, illustrations and paintings by local

artists. Another fascination is the perpetuating wall of patron

personalities. The mural started with Kang’s spectacled countenance

and grows each year when resident artist Bill Atkins depicts new

faces discovered at the annual New Year’s Eve festivities.

If table settings are beautifully arranged, no less so are

individual creations of appetizers, entrees and desserts on a menu

which varies each evening. Among starters priced from $6 to $13 may

be crisp wontons plump with goat cheese and drizzled with ruby

raspberry coulis. Soy ginger vinaigrette enhances Mama Kang’s

sensuously chewy potstickers, and crunchy peanuts in a spicy sauce

add texture contrast to exceptionally tender fried calamari. A second

list of starters in the $11.50 to $14.50 range will be whimsically

titled: “Crabby Mood” is soft shell crab tempura anointed with ginger

coulis and mango salsa. “Topless” translates to fresh hama hama

oysters crowned with ginger pepper mignonette.

Five Feet also titles its “Most Popular Entrees:” Famous 5’

catfish with mildly spicy tomato citrus ginger sauce is $28. Kung pao

fresh range chicken wokked with dry chilies and peanuts, $17.50.

Seafood dominates the dozen other entree selections in a range from

about $24 to $34. Favorites include “Hot Hot” Hawaiian ono and jumbo

scallops wokked in Chinese Cajun spices redolent of garlic, chilies,

lemon, all bedding Thai pasta salad tossed with Thai peanut dressing

and fresh vegetables. “Beyond Sushi” comprises Nova Scotia blue fin

tuna sushi grilled rare under a tempura soft shell crab in spicy

citrus vinaigrette embellished with mango papaya chow chow and Maui

onion rings.

Catering to carnivores comes a 14-ounce New York steak

complemented with bleu cheese and hoisin cabernet chocolate sauce,

vanilla glazed asparagus and a potato leek pancake. A hearty meat duo

consists of roasted rack of lamb from Australia and Colorado lamb

sirloin grilled with Chinese herbs and spices and aromatic anise lamb

jus. Accompanying are grilled Chinese eggplant and roasted garlic

mashed potatoes.

Reservations for the next wine dinner at Five Feet are currently

being accepted. The May 29 event starting at 6:30 p.m. will feature

select vintages from Ferrari Carano Vineyards and Winery. Enhancing

the evening will be the exquisite underwater photography of talented

Lagunan Beverly Factor, which will continue through July 27.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.