Las Brisas offers seafoods of Mexico

DINING OUT

It has been almost 34 years since lovely Las Brisas replaced Laguna’s

long famed landmark, Victor Hugo Inn. Although Iocals were

understandably adamant at the time, it was not long before they

realized that the primo oceanfront location adjacent to our

superlative Art Museum, would become a definitive setting for the

featured “seafoods of Mexico.”

What transpired was a handsome reconstruction of the sprawling

bluffside locale encompassing a quartet of attractively appointed

levels starting with a festive patio above the splendiferous rose

gardens. The alfresco setting quickly became a mecca of fun and

frivolity, most notably on weekends. Sporting its own convenient bar

plus a specialized outdoor menu, the split-level area was recently

refurbished, sparkling blue and white furniture posing a striking

complement to the sun-splashed ocean and sky.

A stroll upstairs leads to the central cocktail lounge where

tropical fish slither in an aquarium divider and a bountiful happy

hour buffet invites weekday guests to enjoy a full Mexican repast for

an unbelievable $1. Beyond all this splendor reposes the two-level

rotunda dining room from which every table commands a romantic view

of colorful gardens and the swirling sea below.

Under astute direction of general manager Fouad Zahidi,

enterprising chieftain since day one, Las Brisas continues to

captivate locals with ongoing attractions. The recent purchase of a

whopping $50,000 worth of kitchen equipment promises to bring ever

more bounty to the popular breakfast buffet offered Monday through

Saturday. This hefty all-you-desire feast is tagged at about $10 a

person, half of that for small fry. In addition are such popular

holiday parties as the recent Cinco de Mayo blast and soon-to-come

Fourth of July festivities. Both feature danceable disco music and

complimentary buffets usually captivating the crowd.

In addition to lunch and dinner menus augmented with two or three

daily quotes, perhaps the most intriguing dining experience here is

the four-course Sunday champagne brunch as it best illustrates the

high caliber of Las Brisas’ cuisine. Regarded by knowing guests as a

superlative beginning to any week, this regal repast commences with a

sparkling flute of bubbly, which will be constantly replenished. A

picture-pretty plate of fresh berries and melon slices and a basket

of those Mexican pastries called bolillos arrives as you contemplate

your brunch selections. Prefacing the main course of a dozen plus

entrees, there is a choice of two soups or salads.

It is the melange of adventuresome dinner style taste sensations

alternating breakfast type delicacies which makes this brunch so

special. Succulent filet mignon is nestled atop caramelized onions

with shitake mushrooms, a side of quiche and an assortment of

julienned vegetables. Seafood enthusiasts will revel in filet of baby

salmon wrapped around a composite of spinach, mushroom, cheese, herbs

and crowned with lime cream sauce and escorted with sauteed potatoes.

Tender London broil comes with garlic mashed potatoes and al dente

vegetables. A salad tossed with ginger balsamic vinaigrette is

generously laced with shellfish and poached salmon. Then, to enhance

this leisurely day of dining, comes a deliciously decadent dessert

surprise, the perfect conclusion to a fascinating epicurean

experience.

Valet parking directly off Coast Highway expedites a walk through

the scenic garden path leading to the bustling patio entry. Or you

may enter the front door adjacent to our magnificent Laguna Art

Museum.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.