Olamendis offers healthfully delicious cuisine

DINING OUT

When enterprising Rosa Olamendi launched her namesake restaurant in

the Village Faire 18 years ago, she brought to Laguna Beach a new

dimension in Mexican cuisine.

Featuring healthful cooking by way of always fresh, all-natural

ingredients sans preservatives, artificial flavors and fats, she

assures that even diet conscious patrons will enjoy the foods of her

native Mexico.

For frying tortillas, tacos and such, in fact, only pure olive and

corn oils are utilized. Because vegetarians comprise a sizeable

segment of Laguna’s population, many Olamendis recipes are

produce-based. In addition, for weight watchers, there’s a “Lite

Menu” embracing a trio of dishes featuring shrimp, chicken and

vegetable-enchiladas, each entree a remarkable 300 calories including

a garden salad, steamed veggies and rice.

Olamendis is a festively colorful dining attraction centered with

a bubbling fountain. Rich tones of brilliant yellow, deep purple,

bright chartreuse embellish graceful arches, pillars and walls below

the sky blue ceiling. Gay floral patterns liven comfortable booths.

Fascinating paintings line the walls and vintage cabinets laden

with artifacts of her homeland embellish the lively, home style

ambience. Not least are the wondrous sand paintings created by the

lovely Rosa herself from materials collected during her travels

throughout north and south American deserts. That the restaurant

staff numbers some of Rosa’s dedicated nieces and nephews says much

about the gracious service defining this friendly restaurant from the

moment this team hurries baskets of warm tortilla chips and torrid

salsas to guests’ flower-bedecked tables.

Boasting two cozy decks overlooking bustling Coast Highway, the

restaurant proffers a many-faceted menu, which leaves nothing to be

desired, commencing with the popular Sunday champagne brunch. This

starts with crisp greens and dressings and ends with a grand finale

of succulent fruits and honey to lavish atop crisp dessert tortillas

plus plump ripe strawberries bathed in sweetened cream. Entrees,

which vary weekly, recently featured Rosa’s innovative recipe of

broccoli rellenos, a deliciously healthful departure from the

requisite chili relleno. Tender morsels of lean pork and zucchini

were anointed in light chili verde sauce as were a steaming pan of

white cheese enchiladas. There were chicken and beef entrees, steamed

rice, refritos, assorted condiments, ranchero and verde salsas,

guacamole and sour cream. Tab for this delectable feast is $14.95,

deduct $2 without bubbly.

Fajitas of steak, chicken and shrimp head the quintet of

specialties on the daily bill-of-fare, which is also available during

Sunday brunch hours. These are grilled with tomatoes, peppers, onions

and served with guacamole, flour or corn tortillas. Seafood

selections outnumber meat and poultry entrees, five of nine

preparations based on shrimp. Among these is camarones al mojo de

ajo, the tender crustaceans sauteed in garlic and sided with

guacamole and a cheese-crowned tomato half. Tequila shrimp are

butterflied, lightly breaded, sauteed in tequila and presented with

sliced avocado. Red snapper is available three ways, simmered

Veracruzana style with tomatoes, peppers, onions, olives; grilled

with garlic sauce; and bedded with a side of cactus salad. A breaded

calamari duo comes with chipotle dip, avocado salad and Spanish rice.

The above are priced from $11.95 to $13.95, as is a trio each of

main course chicken and steak selections, all served with soup or

salad, Mexican rice and refried beans. At $24.95 for two, carnitas

aficionados will find the 16 ounces of lean pork entree a great way

to go, guacamole, tomatoes, onions, cilantro, beans and rice

complement this favorite. Combination plates and a la carta offerings

of enchiladas, burritos, tostadas and tacos range from $2 to $13.95.

Appetizers, soups, salads and half a dozen Mexican-style egg plates

start at $3.95 for a cup of albondigas or Azteca sopas going to

$12.95 for a robust crabmeat salad.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.