Ti Amo awaits for romantic dining

DINING OUT

When it comes to romantic dining venues, it would be difficult to

find a more definitive setting than the one offered at the very

elegant Ti Amo in South Laguna Beach.

The creation of this luxurious restaurant commenced 10 years . It

was wondrously inspired by co-owners Robert and Martine Castoro, the

extraordinary couple whose lives came together when the seasoned

restaurateur recognized the enormous talent of the artist-interior

designer and gave her full reign to create the sizable interior of

his long-time dream.

What transpired is three stories of Italian Renaissance

architecture, artistry and artifacts. Martine’s superlative Michael

Angelo style paintings adorn ceilings and walls which are reflected

in capacious mirrors throughout myriad splendiferous rooms. Silvery

candelabras abundantly dripping clusters of wax add a warming aura to

tables and vintage credenzas. Age-old recipes harking back to the

15th and 16th centuries are augmented nightly with a wide variety of

specials. And a diversified choice of seating is offered via the

two-level garden rooms and the more formal upstairs dining areas made

up of a trio of intimate rooms. Nearby an alfresco patio facing west

offers an ocean site.

An impressive collection of media accolades framed against the

building greets dinner arrivals as they walk downstairs from the side

entry off Coast Highway to be warmly ushered to reserved tables.

While perusing wine and dinner menus a basket of crusty bread and

olive tapenade will soothe your palate as chef Enrique Martinez’s

nightly specials are quoted. The recent octave of entrees included an

unusual serving of delicate white Alaskan salmon layered with spinach

Florentine on a noodle base. Equally unique was pork ossobucco, a

mammoth, falling-off-the-bone tender shank in a rich, gelatinous

tomato-based gravy bedded atop pappardelli pasta and savory carrot

chunks crowned with slivered almonds and a perky rosemary sprig.

Heading the evening’s starter specials were a savory soup of

asparagus bisque with truffle oil and a poached quail egg, along with

a tangy salad of orange-grapefruit vinaigrette-dressed arugula

nestling a crisp soft-shell crab. You won’t go wrong, either, with

the standard menu’s Bloody Mary di Pesce. For this, a margarita glass

is heaped with morsels of lobster, crab, crayfish, calamari, one big

shrimp and a side pitcher of spicy bloody Mary sauce.

In true Italian tradition, the standard bill of fare offers

antipasti, insalates, pastas and secondo piatti, almost a dozen of

the latter entrees embracing seafood, poultry, veal and pork dishes

in a $17 to $21 range. The dozen pastas at $14 to $19 include ravioli

vitello wrapping veal and wild mushroom mousse in porcini mushroom

cream sauce; capelli gameroni alla putanesca with tiger shrimp,

tomatoes, olives and capers livening delicate angel hair pasta; and

linguine frutti di mare laden with shellfish in a spicy tomato broth.

Grilled asparagus drizzled with white truffle oil, wild mushrooms

and reggiano cheese is a standout among salads tabbed from around $6

to $9, among these the signature insalata di Ti Amo boasting shrimp

and hearts of palm with avocado, diced apples, tomatoes and mixed

greens in Dijon honey vinaigrette, Again, in true Italian tradition,

dishes are generously portioned, arranged on china distinctively

designed to showcase each dish.

Desserts are totally delectable, a creamy, lighter-than-air

concoction of tira misu and a dreamy creme brulee sprinkled with

berries among luscious nightly quotes. A full range of cocktails is

available and wines by the glass are elegantly served in sparkling

decanters ready to pour into capacious crystal stems. Reflecting the

warm hospitality of the Costoros, service is graciously attentive

with lovely hostess Lucy Trippe at the fore and such charming servers

as Gloria Waxman ever at the ready.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.