New tastes at the new Balboa Bay Club

Greer Wylder

The Balboa Bay Club & Resort just got a $65-million revamp. It’s now

divided into two sections: a luxury hotel -- a member of Preferred

Hotels & Resort Worldwide -- and a members-only club.

It has the same driveway and the Terrace Apartments building. The

rest has completely changed. The resort now has an Italian look,

spreading over 15 waterfront acres. Even the signature entry fountain

on the Coast Highway has that Italian flair.

Gone is the dated architecture and faded interior. Now, there’s a

great look of natural woods and faux finishes. Coffered ceilings,

wrought iron and classic columns offer a classic European feel. And

the stone floors, wool carpeting and rattan woven furniture are the

finishing touches that transform the decor.

Since 1948, the private waterfront club was a popular dining spot

for members who took advantage of their events. Now, the First Cabin

restaurant is open to the public. It kept its name. This First Cabin

reflects the hotel’s new decor: sprawling French windows, earth

tones, mahogany woods and rattan woven chairs.

The First Cabin offers waterfront dining for breakfast, lunch and

dinner. As the restaurant find its rhythm, expect changes in the

menu. Executive chef Josef Lageder from the La Costa Resort & Spa

also had experience at the Ritz-Carlton hotels. He is known for his

combination of French, California and continental cuisines.

Traditional favorites as well as gourmet and health-conscious

selections please all breakfast appetites. Old-time favorites

buttermilk pancakes ($8), oatmeal or Cream of Wheat ($7), eggs

Benedict ($11), omelets with breakfast potatoes and fresh salsa

($9.50 to $10.50). Adventurous and health-conscious guests can order

a BBC fresh health and energy juice ($5.50); fitness breakfast, fruit

or vegetable juice, egg white omelet with Reggiano Parmesan and

tomatoes, sliced melon and seven grain toast ($9.50), cinnamon

brioche French toast ($8.50); and frittatas ($9.50 to $12). Freshly

brewed Starbucks Coffee and specialty coffee drinks are offered, too.

The two-page lunch menu has appetizers, soups and salads,

sandwiches, extensive entree salads, and First Cabin favorites and

specials. Seafood lovers will appreciate the appetizers -- only fish

served. Especially delicious is the Maryland lump crabmeat with

avocados, endive and Louis sauce ($12.75). Or try the Napoleon of

seared yellow fin ahi tuna served with crisp wonton, mango-papaya

relish, pickled ginger and wasabi dressing ($12.50).

The rest of the menu offers broad culinary selection. Sandwiches

are most appealing. The BBC clubhouse comes with apple wood-smoked

bacon, roasted turkey, beefsteak tomatoes and avocados on toasted

sourdough, served with fruit salad and berries ($13.50). The tender

New York steak sandwich is dressed with red onions, pico de gallo,

crunchy onion rings, French fries and fruit salad and berries

($18.50). An interesting blue crab cake sandwich is served grilled on

a rustic bun with micro greens tossed in olive oil vinaigrette with a

caper-chives aioli ($17.50).

The lunch entree salad favorites are the grilled ginger and

teriyaki marinated salmon salad ($18.50) and the young spinach leafs

with panko fried shrimp ($18.75). Whipped potatoes or roasted pommes

and fresh vegetables accompany First Cabin specials. The pan seared

Maryland crab cakes ($22.50) is a good choice, and so is the popular

macadamia nut crusted Mahi Mahi with mango, papaya relish and light

beurre blanc sauce ($18.50).

At dinner, the menu shines with appetizers, soups and salads,

pastas, fresh fish and shellfish, prime beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

The chilled seafood martini is a perfect blend of lobster, crabmeat,

prawns avocadoes and mango in a cognac-infused tomato aioli ($14.50)

-- a wonderful presentation.

French onion soup aficionados will go wild for the crock of sweet

onion soup gratinee with gruyere croustade ($7). Live Maine lobster

is unexpectedly priced at ($39) -- it’s a bargain here. The roasted

premium veal rack chop with Cognac infused porcini-morel sauce was

too fatty, but the sauce was delicious.

The sauteed breast of chicken in panko crust is rich and sweet.

It’s filled with Parma ham, Boursin cheese and cranberry relish.

The First Cabin is open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, with Sunday

brunch from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Coconut Grove, offering poolside

beverages and snacks, is open from noon to 8 p.m. daily.

Duke’s Place, a full bar and lounge with nightly entertainment and

a select lunch, dinner and dessert menu, is open from noon to

midnight Sunday to Thursday and from noon to 2 a.m. Friday and

Saturday, with entertainment Monday to Saturday. The Library Lounge

serves snacks and afternoon tea by room service 24 hours daily.

Members only dining choices are Henry’s Bistro, serving lunch from

11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and brunch from 10 a.m. to

2 p.m. Sunday. The Bay Club Grill (upstairs in the hotel section)

serves dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. daily.

The Balboa Bay Club & Resort is at 1221 W. Coast Highway in

Newport Beach. For more information, call (949) 645-5000 or visit

www.balboabayclub.com.