Yan Can offers casual taste of Far East

Greer Wylder

Celebrity Chef Martin Yan just opened Yan Can in Costa Mesa, a new

quick-casual restaurant (one step up from a fast-food restaurant).

It’s a mix of quality Asian culinary specialties from Vietnam, China,

Thailand, Korea and Japan. There’s a counter for ordering, plus a

sit-down area where servers bring food.

His first Yan Can opened in Northern California in 2002. Now there

are six California locations (one in Rancho Santa Margarita). Also,

Yan has ventured into fine dining in March at the Irvine Marketplace

with SensAsian Grill.

China-born Martin Yan is known for his long-running,

internationally syndicated cooking show, “Yan Can Cook.” His new

series, “Martin Yan’s Chinatowns,” airs on public television

alongside Julia Childs, Jacques Pepan and other cooking greats.

In his new show, Yan visits 11 Chinatowns around the world. He

explains their local histories and cultures of cooking. Yan has

written 25 cookbooks.

His most recent, “Martin Yan’s Chinatown Cooking,” (a companion

book to his show) made Newsweek magazine’s list of the 10 Best

cookbooks of 2002. It’s a wonderful cookbook filled with 200 classic

and innovative Chinese recipes that are surprisingly easy to follow.

It also includes beautiful photos, brief histories and Yan’s favorite

restaurants and house specialties.

An oversized menu display welcomes you at Yan Can. It has four

bold instructions: discover and explore; order, then sit; eat and

enjoy; return soon. Yan’s cooking demonstrations from his travels

through Asia play continuously.

The noisy kitchen area behind the counter is separated from the

dining area. The contemporary decor features stunning walls done in

soft yellow, green, cream, purple and a deeper version of Chinese

red, with an attractive mix of wood paneling. The dining area holds

24 tables with unusual lime colored lanterns. Chinese-theme wallpaper

and photos of Yan shopping for spices in Singapore or visiting

Thailand are some of the visual delights.

For take-out items, gone are the traditional white boxes. Yan Can

went for black. And many restaurant dishes are served in Chinese red

bowls. Beverage choices include self-serve sodas, bottled water,

wines and beers.

The menu has easy to distinguish symbols for spiciness (one red

dried chili pepper equals mild, two peppers equals hot) and his

family’s red stamp for Yan’s favorites.

Appetizers include simple edamame (soybeans), pork fried wontons.

Yan’s favorite is chicken lettuce wrap. The common dish comes with

stir-fried minced chicken, chopped vegetables and an unusual crunchy

soy nuts served with lettuce cups. Soups include a traditional wonton

and a mild hot and sour. The Bangkok shrimp salad, a light choice,

combines pickled red cabbage, shrimp, grapefruit and greens with a

slightly sour vinaigrette.

Yan’s big on fresh wok favorites, and no wonder, since nine

selections make the focus of his menu. A devotee of wok cooking, he

has used one for nearly four decades. He says it’s the most

functional, all-around cooking tool -- he even boils pasta in one.

Choose from among a line of sweet, spicy and tangy sauces. Most

interesting flavors include the Thai curry with coconut and Yan’s

family favorite, dark stir fry with soy, oyster and ginger. Yan’s

favorite sauces include the Singapore firecracker, a blend of Asian

herbs and aromatic lemongrass, and sweet and sour -- an overdone

Chinese sauce slightly benefited here by cucumbers and mint.

Next, select from chicken ($6.95), beef ($7.95), shrimp ($8.95),

and tofu/vegetables ($6.45). Wok dishes come with white rice or Yan’s

carrot rice, seasoned brown rice with shredded carrot.

Grill items include chicken teriyaki; five spice chicken, a filet

covered in a pungent sauce; and Korean barbecue beef, served over

rice with salad. Noodles and rice selections include pad Thai with a

choice of chicken or tofu/vegetables; lo mein and fried rice with a

choice of carrot brown or white rice; and wok, stock ‘n’ barrel soup,

an overload of shrimp, chicken, beef, vegetables and noodles.

Appetizer prices range from $2.95 to $5.25; kid meals for $3.45;

soups and salads from $1.95 to $7.25; Martin’s fresh wok favorites

from $6.45 to $8.95; grill items from $7.25 to $8.25; noodles and

rice from $6.25 to $7.25.

Pinot Provence offers classical guitar on the patio Thursday

evenings until 7:30 p.m. from July 17 to Aug. 28. Yan Can is at 686

Anton Blvd. in Costa Mesa. (714) 444-5900.

Dining choices opened at the new Bluffs Shopping Center on

MacArthur Boulevard in Newport Beach. Pei Wei (pronounced pay way)

owned by P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, is a casual restaurant that

serves Asian food.

You can choose the style of entree and choose beef, chicken,

shrimp, scallops, vegetables or tofu. The restaurant offers modestly

priced classic Asian favorites and specialties such as Vietnamese

chicken salad rolls, a blend of shredded chicken, butter lettuce,

rice noodles, mint, carrot, peanuts and lime rolled in rice paper;

spicy Korean, a mix of long beans, carrots, mushrooms and onion

tossed in sauce of Korean hot pepper paste, garlic and soy; and

blazing noodles, Pei Wei’s spiciest dish, with noodles, carrots, snap

peas, tomatoes, scallions and basil stir-fried in a spicy soy and hot

pepper sauce.

Other new casual restaurants at the Bluffs are Baja Fresh, known

for its flavorful and fresh Mexican food, always high quality and

convenient; and Quiznos, which offers a traditional fast food

alternative with its signature submarine sandwiches made with toasted

artisan breads.

Daphne’s Greek Cafe serves affordable Greek food. Daphne’s offers

traditional appetizers, salads and combo plates. PastaBravo offers a

full menu of pastas, gourmet pizzas, salads and pasta salads made

from authentic homemade recipes, served in a casual atmosphere.

Gustaf Anders Restaurant will be showing a photography exhibit of

China, “China: A Visual Portrait: Beijing and Inner Mongolia,” from

Sunday through Aug. 3. Gustaf Anders is at 3851 S. Bear St. at South

Coast Village. (714) 668-1737.

Troquet offers a martini special: Premium liquor martinis are $5

from 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday. The restaurant is on Level

3, South Coast Plaza. (714) 708-6865.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.