Greek is great at the summer Sawdust Festival

DINING OUT

Aficionados of authentic Greek cuisine are in for a rare treat when

they discover Pappou’s Greek Island Grille, now in its fourth season

at the annual summer Sawdust Festival. This concept of cordial

principal George Bardossas has been described by world traveler

foodies as the “closest we’ve come locally to real Greek home

cooking.”

Here is a comprehensive bill-of-fare running a delicious gamut of

enticing categories to satisfy breakfast, lunch and dinner cravings.

It is of special delight to the many talented exhibitors who rely on

grounds services for daily sustenance. One happy example is artist

Dennis Junka, a Festival director and 10-year alum who admits he

chose a booth directly adjacent to this happy alfresco cafe to be

constantly available while satisfying his avid culinary cravings. He

is also among locals in the know anticipating a Laguna Beach location

for a Pappou’s restaurant which is to follow the format of his

current Irvine locale that replaced a recent Fountain Valley venue.

The menu is surprisingly affordable featuring appetizers and

entrees known well to devotees of Grecian fare. There are dolmades,

tyropita, spanakopita, melitzanosalata and hummus, five of which

complete a combination platter for $6.95. Entrees include moussaka,

pasticcio, pita bundles and Santorini bowls. Fasolada white bean soup

is topped with feta cheese and sided with pita triangles for all of

$2.50. The unusual Caesar salad is a hefty toss of chunky chopped

tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions and romaine lettuce enhanced with

fresh herbs and crumbled feta cheese. Add a golden fried falafel or

any of the eight kabobs featuring pork, shrimp, salmon, calamari and

steak for $3 more. These flame broiled kabobs, at $4.95 and $5.95,

become pita bundles when wrapped in soft grilled pita bread dressed

with opa, a blend of red and green onions, tomatoes and herbs topped

with tzasziki. For a combo plate with choice of salad, fries or cole

slaw, add $1.50.

Among the many delectable taste sensations is lamb stew, tender,

lean, wine-braised morsels in a flavorful tomato based gravy studded

with carrot bits. Classic moussaka layers eggplant and potato slices

with ground beef and bechamel sauce sided with pita. At $6.75 it is

top price on the menu. Santorini bowls comprise penne pasta with pan

roasted veggies, fresh tomato sauce, feta cheese served with pita

wedges. These are $5.95 and include any kabob or falafel for three

bills more. Probably the biggest bargain of all is the “little guys

fun meal” available to anyone for $4.95. This is a chicken or steak

kabob plated with a side of penne pasta laced with mild tomato sauce,

mushrooms and feta cheese. Or you may opt for piping hot fries, a $2

bargain when ordered a la carte with a cup of yogurt dipping sauce.

There are two specials available only on Tuesday and Thursday.

Pasticcio, a layered casserole of braised ground beef and tube pasta

seasoned with herbs and spices is $8.95. Corfu chicken kabob with

dolmades is $7.95. Both are served with a Greek salad and the same

pita wedges accompanying most dishes.

Desserts from $1.75 to $3.95 include delectably creamy cheesecake

and luscious tiramisu as well as authentically Greek honey-walnut

baklava and the rich custard pie called galaktobourteko. You my also

enjoy contemporary coffees, espresso, cappuccino, hot chocolate, teas

and soft drinks.

This may be fast service with orders expedited via numbered

tickets but it is certainly not “fast food.” Every dish is a tasty

delight and caring concern seems assured, much under guidance of

personable manager Sir Rodeheaver whose recent tenure with a 4-star

hotel is evident.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.