An Italian treat in Surf City

DINING OUT

It’s summertime, so come with me for an Italian holiday -- to

Basilico’s Pasta E Vino on Magnolia Street and Talbert Avenue. This

tiny window-wrapped corner cafe is open every day. The only wall is

canary yellow with a huge painting of spaghetti done by the owner’s

friend, Muriel. Wooden tables and chairs, no booths, fill the room.

Owner Rose Marie Basilico visits the kitchen supervising cook,

Clemente, in the preparation of her wonderful sauces and pasta. But

first, it’s a generous salad covered with a shower of parmesan

slivers over dressing-slicked read and oak leaf, romaine and iceberg

to whet your appetite. The forks, knives and napkins are available in

a wooden box at the table.

There are panini ($7.95, sandwiches), insalate ($3 to $8.95,

salads) and zuppa ($3, soup), but this time, it’s pasta ($7.95 to

$12.95) for us.

I chose linguine with five tail-on shrimp ($12.95). The linguine

pasta (little tongues) is very narrow, 1/8-inch wide, long ribbons

that fill a flat bowl. The fat grilled shrimp has a clean, slightly

spicy taste -- not overly strong. The crusty bread made here is not

exceptional, but it’s good to wipe up the rich golden olive oil that

seeps down from the pasta serving.

My friend had decided on cavatelli with broccoli and milanesa

(steak $10.95) It is short, narrow, ripple-edged shells (cavatelli)

with bright broccoli flowers “done in the style of Milan.” The tender

meat had been dipped in egg and then a bread crumb and parmesan

mixture and fried. It isn’t battered -- just crackly and delicious.

For dessert, who can resist tiramisu, ($4.50) a heavenly creation

of liqueur-soaked cake with rich marscapone, Italian cream cheese,

layered, unexpectedly, with a flat slab of chocolate, all dressed

with gobs of whipped cream.

Our servers, Ian and Justin, said the most popular dishes are

chicken parmesan, fettuccini with Milanese ($10.95) and that old

standby, penne with meatballs ($8.95).

Basilico’s has been in this location since 1999, and patrons enjoy

taking their paninis to the bright green beltway next door where a

picnic table welcomes them. What better way to unwind and have a

feast. You may not be on a busy Palazzio in Italy, but you can enjoy

California weather with an Italian accent.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com