Agean Cafe is the Grecian dining experience

DINING OUT

There is probably a no more definitive Greek dining destination in

all Orange County than the fascinating Aegean Cafe.

Dramatically perched atop the Collection shopping center in

Downtown Laguna Beach, the restaurant commands a view of the Pacific

Ocean and of the surrounding hillside, too, all fascinatingly

reminiscent of the picturesque islands of Greece.

Opened in 1991, the Aegean Cafe was acquired seven years ago by

young entrepreneur Jim Marutsous, whose knowledge of the Balkan

seaside country came by way of his Athenian-born parents. To his

credit, this progressive entrepreneur maintained Athens-trained

executive chef Julio Perez, whose considerable expertise is a

reflection of Marutsous’ impeccable standards.

What was added and continues to prevail is an expanded interior,

as well as a celestial study in deep ocean blue and clear sea foam

white. The refreshing combination frames multitude windows

overlooking the wondrous outdoors, illuminates ceilings, walls and

impeccably set tables dressed in crisp matching linens.

An intricately sketched pastel mural depicting the Greek

countryside forms a scenic backdrop for entertainers Alex Galas, the

bouzouki player, and guitarist Victor Vassilli. The two set the

festive pace for exotic belly dancers costumed in glittering garb who

perform their alluring art nightly. The spirited music is an instant

invitation for guests to join the exciting antics, adding further

excitement to the scene.

This is most emphatically a party place attracting happy families

and convivial groups out for an evening of fun, delicious food and

palpitating potables. To wit, a menu in the most authentic Greek

tradition and a full-service cocktail bar, which is divided from the

dining room by a partition, is enhanced with verdant plants.

The bill of far doesn’t miss a beat with listings such as Grecian

Delights, $13.95 to $21.95; Off the Boat specials, $21.50 to $23.95;

broiler specialties, $18.95 to $34.95; soups, salads, $6.95 to

$13.95; and hot and cold appetizers, $6.95 to $12.95.

Those fascinated with avgolemono soup will quickly discover a

supremely flavorful version here, redolent of lemon and laced

generously with tender shredded chicken and plump ozzo bites. Then,

beyond traditional Greek offerings of tzatziki, dolmades, saganaki,

spanakopita, souvlaki, mousaka and more, they will find a plethora of

creative delicacies.

There’s Athenian chicken embracing spinach, feta, dill and tangy

egg-lemon sauce; lamb shank kokinisto braised with tomato sauce,

olive oil, red wine and herbs; swordfish charbroiled with a sauce of

olive oil, lemon, capers and herbs and other gourmet delights. Shrimp

kastella, prepared with big, plump prawns, is a delectable

alternative to Aegean’s scampi, this version sauteed in tomato,

garlic, herbs and embellished with feta and parsley.

A trio of family-style dinners is the way to go for large parties

who will take pleasure in sharing the wide variety of taste

sensations. Priced at $27.95, $31.95 and $36.95 per person, each is

prefaced with seven to nine appetizers, a choice of soup or salad,

three to five entrees plus coffee and dessert, the latter featuring

an assortment of homemade sweets.

A notable finale is the luscious katofi delight, a baklava-based

treat embellished with whipped cream and shredded filo. Way to go.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.