The new Cannery brings back the old flavor with a new look

Greer Wylder

Local history, hip new decor and fine dining blend to make the

Cannery Newport’s latest “in” spot.

First, a bit of history. The Cannery was built in 1921 at

Newport’s Rhine channel between 30th Street and Lido Park Drive, when

this was the harbor’s busiest commercial fishing area. Western

Canners Company took over in 1930. Workers hand-packed 400 cases a

day.

By the 1950s, machinery improved output, and in its prime,

productivity reached a remarkable 5,000 cases a day.

That means, in a record day, 135 tons of mackerel and 10,000 tons

of albacore. Population growth and commercialization created

pollution and forced the packing factory to close Aug. 1, 1966.

In 1973, Bill Hamilton bought the property and transformed it into

a popular waterfront restaurant and harbor boat cruise center. For

more than 20 years, it served fine seafood and attracted a fun-loving

crowd to its upstairs entertainment lounge and seafood bar.

Unfortunately, the restaurant aged. In the late 1990s, Hamilton

tried to revive its appeal by expanding entertainment. He wanted a

dance floor upstairs, but the city would not approve. He closed the

business.

In 2000, the Cannery was going to be turned into residential

property, but Jack Croul couldn’t stand to see the beloved waterfront

landmark torn down. He purchased and rescued the building. Then Croul

entrusted experienced restaurateur Ron Salisbury to bring it back to

life. (Salisbury is from the famed El Cholo chain of restaurants.)

The new Cannery reopened in the spring of 2002.

Now, to the hip decor. The Cannery sets the Newport vogue with an

updated look. Except for the exterior, and all support timbers and

beams, everything was replaced, even the kitchen.

Costa Mesa-based Hatch Design Group, an architecture and interior

design company, renovated the restaurant and upstairs cocktail lounge

and sushi bar area. There are breathtaking cascading wall fountains:

One spans the two-level wall of the entryway; the other, behind the

bar, is side-lighted, changing from blues to purples.

Laguna Beach artist Tom Lewis of J’Adore Lighting has created

eye-catching ocean-themed lighting. His giant orange caviar light

fixtures hang in the dining room; upside-down tabletop starfish are

at the bar; and there’s a string of fun squid lights over the sushi

bar. Unusual pastel jellyfish lights float above the entryway and

stairs, and a sea-urchin fixture is placed over “John Wayne’s” table.

(This is the most requested corner table. It’s near the window, seats

10, and has channel views.)

The downstairs dining area offers the warm feel of dark stained

oak floors and windows. This is offset by cream-colored wood

paneling. A custom circular-front wood grill creates the room’s focal

point. There’s even a baby grand piano. Electronically controlled

awning panels that can drop to the floor, and eight state-of-the-art

heaters make the waterfront patio even more desirable. It’s available

for private parties, as is the Lanai dining room upstairs.

After all that history and spectacle, who cares about the food?

Everyone in Newport does! Long lines form Thursdays through Saturdays

(usually between 8 to 8:30 p.m.) just for the large cocktail lounge

and sushi bar upstairs. (Thursdays are not as crazy.) The kitchen can

pan saute, oven roast or mesquite grill its famous Angus beef.

But remember, this is a fish restaurant, too. This is Newport’s

old Cannery. There is an extensive fish selection, even serving

delicious baby abalone ($78.50). It’s one of the few local

restaurants that serves abalone. Salcedo’s culinary background adds

to the menu’s depth. He was the sous chef at the Ritz in Newport

Beach-an expert with refined sauces and chilies.

At lunch, they offer seafood, grilled meat dishes and gourmet

regional cuisine. There are classic appetizers: shrimp cocktails

($12.50); fresh-shucked oysters ($8.50 to $14.95), steamed clams in

white wine herb broth ($11.95). Entrees include a perfect summer

salad with Dungeness crab, shrimp on Romaine and exotic greens with a

citrus vinaigrette ($17.50); and tasty chipotle barbecue baby back

ribs ($17.50) and Black Angus cheddar cheeseburgers ($13.95).

The best lunch choices are the seared ahi salad, with pear

tomatoes, cucumbers, avocado, sweet, fresh daikon and baby greens in

a light lime-soy vinaigrette ($16.50); the not-your-average tuna

sandwich, a grilled ahi tuna steak, seared pineapple and creamy

wasabi-ginger mayonnaise ($14.50); and enchilada de Mariscos, with a

combination of Maine lobster, shrimp, scallops, spinach and shiitake

mushrooms in an Ancho chile-lobster sauce ($11.95). It has a smoky-chili flavor, with two sauces, a light lobster-based cream

sauce inside and mild, sweet Ancho sauce on the enchilada.

At dinner, the dining room’s best dishes are Jack’s cioppino, a

combination of flavorful spices, in a thick stew of crab, shrimp,

calamari, mussels, and in-season fish ($29.95); and the flaky and

delicate Chilean seabass, pan roasted in a not-too sweet mango,

coconut honey sauce, with sea scallops ($25.95). The chef highly

recommends the halibut with a macadamia nut-crust, served with a

pineapple relish and mint champagne sauce ($25.95). Other good

choices are the filet mignon in truffle sauce with wood-grilled

asparagus ($29.50); and lamb chops with rosemary-thyme au jus and

rich potato gratin.

The sushi bar upstairs is well received. The venue is perfect, a

sushi bar/cocktail lounge with bay views! The decor has a soon-to-be

tired Tommy Bahama look: seagrass rugs, leather sofas, matchstick

bamboo shades, teak and rattan furniture, and tropical fish tail and

banana palm trees. The river rock surrounding the sushi bar can stay.

It will still look good five years from now. The extensive Japanese

menu was scaled back to focus on fresh sushi. You can’t go wrong with

any of the rolls, (especially the yellow tail $4 to $4.50, salmon

skin $3.80 to $4.20 and soft shell crab roll $9.50). There are also

enticing specials of the day.

An upcoming addition at the Cannery is a weekend cocktail cruise

with Duffy Electric Boats. The 50-minute bay cruise will have drink

and appetizer themes provided for up to eight guests. One selection

will offer beer, margaritas and Mexican food; another will offer

martinis and pate; or Champagne with oysters and shrimp cocktails.

And, a new wine case, built by the stairway, will feature fine wines

signed by sports figures and dignitaries.

The Cannery is at 3010 Lafayette Ave. in Newport Beach. Call (949)

566-0060 or visit https://www.cannery newport.com.

Atmosphere: A juxtaposition of old and new, Newport’s historic

waterfront cannery, completed renovated with fun sea-inspired

lighting, wall fountains, and warm woods.

Recommended Dishes: Chilean sea bass, macadamia nut-crusted

Northern halibut, filet mignon, and any of the special sushi rolls.

Wonderful desserts.