Mario’s Cafe & Bakery shines

DINING OUT

A sophisticated new ambience distinguishes Mario’s Cafe & Bakery

which was launched eight years ago in Downtown Laguna Beach at the

forefront of Food Village.

Personally remodeled by enterprising principal Hans Khademi, the

restaurant is now a study in burnished mahogany and richly polished

marble setting a handsome pace replete with a trio of graceful

chandeliers, smartly striped fabric-covered banquettes backing

immaculately laminated tables and mahogany chairs.

The inviting setting dramatizes the high quality, nutritious

dining choices that are a hallmark of Khademi, whose intense

dedication to his craft overcame the engineering degree he earned at

the University of Long Beach. Upon entering the cafe, guests are

immediately captivated with the sparkling glass cases displaying

mouthwatering salads, entrees, pizzas, pastas and baked goods.

Everything is prepared in the efficiently equipped kitchen each

morning including the lusciously tempting confections conceived by

the bakery’s skilled French pastry chef.

Colorful square plates beckon to daily entrees adorning a showcase

of grilled salmon and chicken, these sided with fresh vegetables and

/ or crisp greens. A mahogany-color basket spills over with

award-winning artisan breads and overhead menus framed against the

walls are at the ready for counter-side ordering. The happiest

surprise is probably the affordable price structure here.

Of special import are pastas available with a choice of meat,

marinara, Alfredo or champagne sauces. Prices, $5.99 to $6.99 at

lunch, a dollar more at dinner, list such delectable delights as

delicate manicotti wrapped in a paper-thin crepe richly stuffed with

spinach or cheese. Marinara sauce cooked with fresh tomatoes gives a

piquant flavor to eggplant parmesan and chicken parmesan sauteed in

olive oil and blanketed with cheese, as well as to hefty meat and

vegetable lasagnas. These are among 10 savory variations served with

garlic toast.

“From the oven” comes an octave of hot sandwiches -- chicken

parmesan with creamy sauce, meatball and sausage with cheese, hot

pastrami, ratatouille, eggplant, croque monsieur, each a nominal

$6.99. In the same realm is the cold selection prepared exclusively

with premium Boar’s Head meats and topped with tomato, red onion,

lettuce and dressed with a choice of mayo or balsamic Italian

vinaigrette. Presented in one of those capacious baskets, each

sandwich is sided with the house salad.

Main course salads, save for pasta and greens at $3.99 and fresh

salmon for $7.99, are a mere $6.49 including internationally-inspired

Greek, nicoise, Caesar, tabbouleh and grilled chicken, spinach, pasta

and antipasto, Add $2.50 for a topping of grilled chicken breast on

any of these tempters. In addition to five prix fixe pizzas and the

$2.69 pizzas by the slice, substantially more than a dozen

ingredients are at the ready to embellish design-your-own pizzas

available in 10”, 12”, 14” and 16” sizes tabbed from $5.49 to $12.99.

Picture-perfect pastries -- flaky Napoleons to almond-crusted

chocolate ganache / raspberry tarts are $2.50 to $4.50. A full range

of coffees, teas, smoothies and iced beverages start at $1.25 going

to $3.45. Mario’s breakfast bounties are available Thursday through

Sunday. Included are frittatas, French toast, eggs Benedict, quiche

and a quintet of omelets prefaced with fresh fruit, home baked bread

and a redskin potato accompaniment, $4.95 to $7.49.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.