Following the Vikings

Pat Neisser

The zodiac spun through a navy blue sea tipped with white foam bound

for a bird-covered island. Ten pairs of astonished eyes gazed upward

at more than 200 assorted birds flying in formation. Atlantic

puffins, yellow- necked gannets and storm petrels all strutted their

stuff while below parka hoods were hastily pulled over vulnerable

heads. Our bird expert began introducing each bird species to an

uninformed bunch of tourists who learned quickly. We had arrived at

Muckle Flugga Island, the northern-most island in the Shetlands.

We had just left our mother ship, the sleek 330-foot Clipper

Adventurer, for one of our daily excursions into unknown territory;

the Shetlands, Orkneys and Hebrides Islands -- unvisited by most of

us, but actually well-known to invaders and explorers for the past

5,000 years. Our itinerary had 100 of us boarding our ice-hardened

expedition ship at Bergen, Norway after a two-day sojourn in Oslo.

The Clipper Adventurer is a stunning ship, decorated elegantly

with shining brass gleaming everywhere. Cabins are comfortable with

all necessities, and public rooms are truly handsome. The Clipper

Adventurer has all the many amenities of her sister ships, Nantucket,

Yorktown and Odyssey Clipper ships, and exudes warmth and a welcoming

spirit. Between the enormous breakfasts and lunches served both in

the dining room and lounge, freshly baked cookies, hors d’oevres and

superb dinners, we all needed the gym.

We were blessed with experienced lecturers from all over the

world, including biologists, archeologists, historians and guest

speakers all well-versed in this Viking territory called the Route of

the Vikings. We sailed from Bergen through coastal fjords west to our

first stop, Muckle Flugga in the Shetland Islands. This is where we

met up with our first birds.

As we headed out each day either in our zippy zodiacs (inflatable

unsinkable pontoon boats decked out in our life-jackets), or in

handsome buses, with cameras and brochures spread all over the seats,

the history of these wild isles came alive. Our own experts were

joined by local guides who always had a lively story or two that gave

the place a special favor. We learned Celtic or Viking names for

forts “Brochs” and began to decipher the local accents.

After Muckle Flugga, in the Shetlands, our ship then headed for

Mainland Isle, the largest in the Shetlands, and we spent a

delightful day perusing the 17th century Village of Lerwick, capitol

of the Shetlands, with its 7,000 friendly inhabitants.

Cobble-stone streets and stone buildings filled with flower

baskets, lighted up in the unexpected sun. We trekked up the narrow

steps, visiting Fort Charlotte, a Norse museum and lots of shops on

the main street. We ate a lunch of fresh shrimp crepes and local beer

at Osla, a Norse restaurant.

The landscape is dotted with Shetland sheep and adorable Shetland

ponies. They are not quite so adorable up close, as they do nip, but

photo-ops abounded.

Heading out to sea, we next visited the Isle of Noss with its bird

colonies and gray seals. Our first Iron Age Broch was a thrill. These

ancient round stone forts are important reminders of how clever were

our Iron Age ancestors.

Next in the Shetland chain is Mousa Island, inhabited by sheep and

Shetland Ponies and the famous Mousa Broch, the best still in

existence. Roman slave hunters and Norse noblemen have been among the

many peoples using this thick-walled fortification built by the Picts

2,000 years ago.

We then cruised to our anchorage off Jarlshof (earl’s house) and

headed through waves and sea spray in our zodiacs to a dry landing on

a pier. A few blocks and suddenly we are surrounded by a Norse

settlement with its ancient village which was occupied for more than

3,000 years.

In the 17th century, a storm blew away the sand dunes, and

suddenly a village was unearthed. Remains of houses, walls and

tunnels were excavated.

Our next stop, Fair Isle with its 70 inhabitants and 300 sheep was

most welcoming. Birds of all descriptions love this island and dive

for fish.

Our next visit was to Kirkwall, Mainland Isle, Orkney Islands

(only 70 islands, with 19 inhabited). The Orkneys are emerald green

islands with rocky coastlines, six miles off the coast of Scotland.

We picked up a coach at the Kirkwall dock and first visited Maes

howe, an amazing ancient burial tomb built of huge slabs of stone.

On the way to the 5,000-year-old village of Skara brae, we

followed the coast of Scapa Flow, so famous during the first and

second World Wars. People have lived in the Orkneys for more than

6,000 years. We visited Skara Brae with its stone houses, courtyards

and stone furniture, one of Europe’s best preserved Stone Age

settlements.

Kirkwall itself houses stunning 12th century St. Magnus Cathedral

and other ancient buildings. But the present is always with us and

cyber cafes abound, as well as jewelry stores carrying some

enchanting silver and gold designs . The ancient Runes of the Norse

(patterns of writing) are used in the jewelry. This is a World

Heritage Island and well worth a return.

We began a real life adventure when we arrived at Stornoway, on

the island of Lewis, the Hebrides. The wind was blowing, but we

headed out in our buses to visit Callandish Standing Stones, enormous

4,000-year-old ceremonial stones on a hill. A 70 mph gale was

flourishing, so some us didn’t make it up the hill. Husband Carl

hiked up, bent against the wind, but others of us headed for hot tea

in the tiny stone cafe nearby.

We then drove on, braving the gale and visited 2,000-year Carloway

Broch and a black house museum with its thatched house.

By then we could hardly stand up, but mushed on, heading back to

Stornoway. A summer storm pushed the winds to 100 mph, and we stayed

at our dock until early morning.

Surviving the gale, things calmed down and we headed to Inverewe

Gardens, a lush garden on the shores of Loch Ewe, and saw trees and

flowers from around the world. The next day we sailed into Dublin,

our expedition over. What an incredible experience we all had, making

us ready to return for longer stays.

IF YOU GO

Hotels in Oslo. SAS Radisson Plaza, Continental and others are all

excellent. We had a great dinner on the wharf at Lofoten. The Cruise

includes a guided tour of Oslo. We flew over on SAS and returned on

Air Lingus, both excellent. For information on Clipper Cruise Line,

call your agent or 1-800-325-0010, or https://www.clippercruise.com.

* PAT NEISSER is a Newport Beach resident.