A landmark in Laguna Beach

Glori Fickling

Initially constructed way back in turn-of-the century 1902, Madison

Square and Garden Cafe is a treasured Laguna Beach landmark,

reportedly one of our town’s oldest buildings. A private home until

restored by entrepreneur Jonathan Madison four years ago, the vintage

property was immediately embraced by locals when they were introduced

to his unique dining / shopping concept. Here a verdant garden

setting reposes openly behind central rooms laden with a plethora of

exotic and whimsical treasures, all personally collected from

worldwide markets, Europe to the Orient, to Wisconsin and Oregon.

At an alcove near the entry a kitchen counter expedites ordering

from an overhead menu. Guests receive a number, then settle atop

stools looking out to Coast Highway or migrate to the rear garden

while awaiting breakfast or lunch under a trio of ancient pepper

trees surrounded by myriad artifacts and furnishings. Beverages await

at a help-yourself bar and a rear garage boasts imported and local

furnishings which abound on this fascinating property. It is the

dream come true of the enterprising Madison, a landscape architect

and attorney whose degree in plant physiology inspires his impeccable

maintenance of the grounds.

Possibly most astounding about the aged building is how it was so

dramatically restored by Madison who migrated from his native

Manhattan almost immediately upon discovering our welcoming shores.

And how he immediately moved ahead with this inspired project.

Starting with the original kitchen and bathroom, every refurbishment

is a labor of love come to fruition. The seawall facing was totally

reworked. The crumbling fireplace was reset stone by stone. Polished

mahogany now tops a central bar proudly standing above handsome

hemlock floorboards. And the old footed bathtub, delightfully

decorated by award-winning artist Sandra Jones Campbell with a riot

of colorful faces, is now perched atop a variety of sundries and

overflows with toiletries of every kind.

As dedicated to his kitchen as he is to the treasured structure,

Madison’s thoughtfully conceived menu is an astute reflection of his

superlative values. Healthful ingredients are foremost, he says, and

it is obvious that every order is freshly prepared and generously

portioned. Capricious categories include such titles as “Flapjacks,

Grains and Things with Holes in them” This translates to oatmeal,

granola, ricotta pancakes, German apple pancakes, bagels and muffins,

$3.25 to $7.85

“Good Eggs and Eggs that must be Whipped” range from omelets,

frittatas, Benedicts, rancheros and three eggs any style with fries

and fresh fruit, $7.75 to $8.50. “Good Witch, Bad Witch ...

Sandwich!” Sided with house fries or fresh fruit, this trio starts

with a big triple-layer combination of turkey roasted on the

premises, sliced, grilled and embellished with avocado, bacon,

lettuce and tomato, $8.75. “Lettuce Present our Salads” describes

organic greens with grapefruit vinaigrette, $4.85, and Cajun chicken

Caesar with garlic croutons, $9.25. Finally, “Grill Me all you want

... I’ll never Tell!” includes grilled halibut almandine, $11.75;

charbroiled Hawaiian ahi tuna served open face on focaccia with

chunky avocado-tomato salsa, $12.75; and chicken breast Capri sauteed

with wild mushrooms, roasted peppers and cheese on focaccia, $11.25.

The latter two are sided with mixed greens and fresh fruit.

The entire menu is available from 8 a.m. until 3 p.m. daily except

Tuesdays. “My evenings are reserved for charitable events” he says

modestly. Indeed, the magnanimous Madison is well renowned and lauded

for sponsoring many worthy organizations frequently offering the

premises as well as himself to support such events as Laguna Shanti,

AIDS Services, Family Violence Prevention and Human Options.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.