A landmark in Laguna Beach
Glori Fickling
Initially constructed way back in turn-of-the century 1902, Madison
Square and Garden Cafe is a treasured Laguna Beach landmark,
reportedly one of our town’s oldest buildings. A private home until
restored by entrepreneur Jonathan Madison four years ago, the vintage
property was immediately embraced by locals when they were introduced
to his unique dining / shopping concept. Here a verdant garden
setting reposes openly behind central rooms laden with a plethora of
exotic and whimsical treasures, all personally collected from
worldwide markets, Europe to the Orient, to Wisconsin and Oregon.
At an alcove near the entry a kitchen counter expedites ordering
from an overhead menu. Guests receive a number, then settle atop
stools looking out to Coast Highway or migrate to the rear garden
while awaiting breakfast or lunch under a trio of ancient pepper
trees surrounded by myriad artifacts and furnishings. Beverages await
at a help-yourself bar and a rear garage boasts imported and local
furnishings which abound on this fascinating property. It is the
dream come true of the enterprising Madison, a landscape architect
and attorney whose degree in plant physiology inspires his impeccable
maintenance of the grounds.
Possibly most astounding about the aged building is how it was so
dramatically restored by Madison who migrated from his native
Manhattan almost immediately upon discovering our welcoming shores.
And how he immediately moved ahead with this inspired project.
Starting with the original kitchen and bathroom, every refurbishment
is a labor of love come to fruition. The seawall facing was totally
reworked. The crumbling fireplace was reset stone by stone. Polished
mahogany now tops a central bar proudly standing above handsome
hemlock floorboards. And the old footed bathtub, delightfully
decorated by award-winning artist Sandra Jones Campbell with a riot
of colorful faces, is now perched atop a variety of sundries and
overflows with toiletries of every kind.
As dedicated to his kitchen as he is to the treasured structure,
Madison’s thoughtfully conceived menu is an astute reflection of his
superlative values. Healthful ingredients are foremost, he says, and
it is obvious that every order is freshly prepared and generously
portioned. Capricious categories include such titles as “Flapjacks,
Grains and Things with Holes in them” This translates to oatmeal,
granola, ricotta pancakes, German apple pancakes, bagels and muffins,
$3.25 to $7.85
“Good Eggs and Eggs that must be Whipped” range from omelets,
frittatas, Benedicts, rancheros and three eggs any style with fries
and fresh fruit, $7.75 to $8.50. “Good Witch, Bad Witch ...
Sandwich!” Sided with house fries or fresh fruit, this trio starts
with a big triple-layer combination of turkey roasted on the
premises, sliced, grilled and embellished with avocado, bacon,
lettuce and tomato, $8.75. “Lettuce Present our Salads” describes
organic greens with grapefruit vinaigrette, $4.85, and Cajun chicken
Caesar with garlic croutons, $9.25. Finally, “Grill Me all you want
... I’ll never Tell!” includes grilled halibut almandine, $11.75;
charbroiled Hawaiian ahi tuna served open face on focaccia with
chunky avocado-tomato salsa, $12.75; and chicken breast Capri sauteed
with wild mushrooms, roasted peppers and cheese on focaccia, $11.25.
The latter two are sided with mixed greens and fresh fruit.
The entire menu is available from 8 a.m. until 3 p.m. daily except
Tuesdays. “My evenings are reserved for charitable events” he says
modestly. Indeed, the magnanimous Madison is well renowned and lauded
for sponsoring many worthy organizations frequently offering the
premises as well as himself to support such events as Laguna Shanti,
AIDS Services, Family Violence Prevention and Human Options.
* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has
written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.
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