Cafe Zinc now offers dinner alfresco

Glori Fickling

When it comes to alfresco dining, there is probably no more popular

spot along the coast than Cafe Zinc & Market on Ocean Avenue adjacent

to the bus depot Downtown.

Founded in 1988 by enterprising localite John Secretan, the cozy

retreat is a vegetarian delight and has been conceived with enough

imagination and variety to please even non-vegetarian diners.

Directly inside the 20-table patio, a service bar with five more

tables poses a backdrop for the works of local artists. Currently the

paintings of Leslie Saris grace the walls.

It was not long after opening before word of Cafe Zinc & Market

reached beyond locals to captivate out-of-town foodies who actually

admitted looking forward to the drive just to enjoy the food and the

ambience of this inviting little breakfast/lunch venue. Within three

years, the restaurant was amplified with its very own adjoining

market featuring home-made breads, deli delights and assorted

groceries. Then later, in 1994, Secretan cloned his creation in

Solana Beach and late last year launched a third Cafe Zinc in Corona

del Mar.

Happiest news for Laguna Beach devotees, however, was the

announcement in April that Cafe Zinc was opening for dinner on

Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights with a menu featuring

appetizers, soups, salads, hot sandwiches, pizzettes and desserts as

well as half a dozen enticing entrees. Starters now include a

Humboldt fog goat cheese plate heaped with grapes, brie, crackers and

fig puree, plus steamed artichoke with pesto aioli, herbed goat

cheese and crostini. Each, at $9.95, serves two appetites.

Among the creative quartet of sandwiches at $9.75 are an open-face

topping of braised asparagus with cauliflower puree, poached egg,

cheddar cheese and buttered breadcrumbs and a combo of breaded

eggplant with savory white beans, mozzarella, crumbled feta, arugula

and mint pesto. For the same price comes a hearty dinner salad of

avocado, beets, fennel and warm goat cheese atop mixed greens

anointed with lemon olive oil and fig balsamic vinaigrette.

The half dozen pizzettes at $7.95 range from pesto with roasted

peppers, toasted pine nuts and goat cheese to a Southwestern chipotle

arrangement of smoked gouda, mozzarella, black beans, red onion,

tomato, roasted corn and cilantro. Six hot entrees at a mere $9.25,

are beautifully presented with a side of vinaigrette-dressed salad,

sliced tomatoes and a wedge of ripe avocado. Eggplant parmesan is

lightly breaded and generously layered with ricotta cheese in a rich

marinara sauce. Spinach lasagna with a light bechamel sauce boasts

sauteed leaves and toasted breadcrumbs. For bell pepper devotees,

this version is rich with brown rice, sauteed mushrooms, celery and a

crown of creamed Swiss chard.

For a grand finale, friendly managers Lisa and Suri and star

server Michael present a platter of such yummy desserts as tiramisu,

cheesecake, lemon and raspberry tarts, these too are tabbed for

affordable enjoyment at $4.25 a serving.

The wine list is equally nominal, all vintages available by the

glass or bottle, each bearing accurate menu descriptions. A quartet

each of red and white wines starts at $4.25 going to $9.75 a bottle

Sparkling wines and champagnes are $6.50 to $50 a flute, a trio of

apertif and dessert wines, $4.25 each. For $2.50 and $3 respectively

there’s a choice of Red Hook amber ale and Heineken beer. Bon

appetito!

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.