Gong’s is the measure of a Chinese restaurant

Mary Furr

Friendliness washes over Gong’s Chinese Restaurant at Golden West

Street and Warner Avenue like a gentle rain. From the smiling

greeting of chef and owner Gong Wong to the quick service of Juliet

who brings the ubiquitous pot of tea, Gong’s feels like a

neighborhood spot. So escape the bustle of work and refresh the soul.

There are two dining rooms -- the first with gold tone vinyl

booths, the second more elegant with booths, tables and black lacquer

chairs and walls decorated with gorgeous open fans and black plaques

with figures of inlaid mother-of-pearl. This is the place to impress

a date.

I decided on No. 3 ($7.25) from the extensive dinner menu. It

begins with a hot, clear broth with cut celery. Included is Hong Sui

Gai -- a dish of large celery slices with bright green crisp snow

peas, zucchini and thick sliced mushrooms with battered pieces of

white meat chicken. Hong says he goes early to get his fresh

vegetables at a market in Chinatown. This dish is cooked quickly to

maintain its freshness. It’s served with the full bits of carrot, red

peppers and onions with tiny cubes of pork and is light and fluffy.

From among the Mandarin specials my friend chose Moo Shu Pork

(lunch, $5.25, dinner $6.25), big fat translucent pancakes filled

with shredded pork sauteed with egg, bamboo shoots, mushrooms and

Chinese vegetables. Spoon in some of the dark plum sauce for extra

zest. The crunch and general messiness is delicious.

Gong says he has added more seafood to the menu with shrimp

($8.95) and scallops ($7.95) served with black mushrooms and fresh

asparagus now in season. Very popular are shrimp, chicken, beef and

barbecue pork with egg noodles and vegetables. Probably the dish most

ordered is Moo Goo Gai Pan ($5.95), one of my favorites with breast

of chicken cooked with plenty of vegetables and mushrooms.

No meal at Gong’s could end without the only dessert -- almond

cookies and folded fortune cookies. Amazingly, fortune cookies were

created in 1916 by a California noodle maker. Just recently a local

noodle firm was hired to build a noodle factory in Canton.

If you’re looking for a traditional Chinese restaurant like one

you remember as a child, Gong’s is the place. It is celebrating its

25th year in business. It’s a Chinese restaurant to measure others

by.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com