Double celebration for Woody’s at the beach
Glori Fickling
Deemed “extraordinary” in the current Zagat survey, which named it
“one of the top five restaurants in Laguna Beach,” Woody’s at the
Beach is celebrating a happy fifth anniversary.
Commencing with a new fall/winter menu conceived by innovative
chef Jon Hubbard, the popular restaurant is further treating its
clientele to an exceptional prix fixe mid-week bill of fare. This is
a superb three-course menu for a bargain $20 offering a choice of six
entrees plus soup or salad and dessert with a celebratory glass of
wine to boot.
Principals Joel Herzer and Dan Ketelaars are anticipating a grand
opening in mid-December of their spacious new Wang’s in the Desert on
site of the onetime Flower Drum Chinese venue in the famed resort of
Palm Springs.
In a departure from the French cuisine for which Woody’s was known
early on, Chef Hubbard’s approach is toward lighter fare with an
accent on Asian and Pacific Rim recipes. Many entrees are
complemented with rice and noodles -- soba, udon and glass among
specific varieties. Thoughtfully conceived with input from guests,
this is a diversified listing of starters and entrees. Hubbard’s
saffron mussel chowder is a shining example of his creativity as are
his dozen diversified appetizers.
A splash of cognac and waft of ginger enhances tender escargot
brimming with buttery garlic and herbs. Sop this up with the crusty
French bread presented upon seating. Furthering the Oriental concept
are pot stickers, plump with curried chicken and pan fried to a crisp
finale, ponzu dipping sauce defining blackened ahi, sweet curry and
yogurt mint spicing grilled spring rolls crammed with julienned
vegetables. And if you yearn for multi tastes, a sampler platter
awaits with all of the above plus cream cheese wontons with citrus
greens and soy dipping sauce. Devotees of the succulent Washington
State mussels appetizer will be delighted to know that this
superlative favorite continues to reign supreme in all its splendor.
Spinach salad further defines Hubbard’s creativity, pistachio
crusted Sonoma goat cheese and raspberry vinaigrette lending an
original twist to an old concept. As for unique entrees, what is more
original than grilled ostrich, a tasty, low-calorie protein posed
atop wild rice in green pepper port sauce sided with seasonal
vegetables.
It’s great to note pork increasingly gracing the menus of
prestigious restaurants. Here we find that tastiest of white meats as
a 14-ounce porterhouse in a chorizo crusting, coated with Dijon cream
sauce and complemented with roasted onion mashed potatoes, and a
roasted tenderloin version stuffed with walnut and cranberries in a
chipotle caramel sauce. Seafood palates may opt for ginger soy glazed
filet of rare ahi with coconut risotto and Asian vegetables;
macadamia crusted white sea bass in cherry beurre blanc and pearl
couscous; sauteed shrimp and scallops surrounding a mound of glass
noodles enhanced with wine and garlic, and such nightly quotes as
succulent swordfish individually prepared with du jour
accompaniments.
Covering the front for carnivores are varying preparations of
grilled beef chops and New York steaks. Pasta devotees are pampered
with a quintet of diversified stylings -- prime beef over egg noodles
in a burgundy stroganoff sauce with shallots and mushrooms; penne
with Italian veggies; angel hair sauteed with diced tomatoes, garlic
and parmesan; linguine and mushrooms in a creamy sauce of applewood
smoked bacon and sun-dried tomatoes. Starters are in the $5 to $12
range; entrees, $14 to $27.50, pastas, $11.50 to $16.50.
For your sweet tooth, pastry chef Joseph Damalouji is at the ready
with a quartet of delectable taste sensations at $6 and 7, not least
a warm chocolate torte with brandied cherry gelato, cherries jubilee
and shaved white chocolate.
* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has
written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.
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