Double celebration for Woody’s at the beach

Glori Fickling

Deemed “extraordinary” in the current Zagat survey, which named it

“one of the top five restaurants in Laguna Beach,” Woody’s at the

Beach is celebrating a happy fifth anniversary.

Commencing with a new fall/winter menu conceived by innovative

chef Jon Hubbard, the popular restaurant is further treating its

clientele to an exceptional prix fixe mid-week bill of fare. This is

a superb three-course menu for a bargain $20 offering a choice of six

entrees plus soup or salad and dessert with a celebratory glass of

wine to boot.

Principals Joel Herzer and Dan Ketelaars are anticipating a grand

opening in mid-December of their spacious new Wang’s in the Desert on

site of the onetime Flower Drum Chinese venue in the famed resort of

Palm Springs.

In a departure from the French cuisine for which Woody’s was known

early on, Chef Hubbard’s approach is toward lighter fare with an

accent on Asian and Pacific Rim recipes. Many entrees are

complemented with rice and noodles -- soba, udon and glass among

specific varieties. Thoughtfully conceived with input from guests,

this is a diversified listing of starters and entrees. Hubbard’s

saffron mussel chowder is a shining example of his creativity as are

his dozen diversified appetizers.

A splash of cognac and waft of ginger enhances tender escargot

brimming with buttery garlic and herbs. Sop this up with the crusty

French bread presented upon seating. Furthering the Oriental concept

are pot stickers, plump with curried chicken and pan fried to a crisp

finale, ponzu dipping sauce defining blackened ahi, sweet curry and

yogurt mint spicing grilled spring rolls crammed with julienned

vegetables. And if you yearn for multi tastes, a sampler platter

awaits with all of the above plus cream cheese wontons with citrus

greens and soy dipping sauce. Devotees of the succulent Washington

State mussels appetizer will be delighted to know that this

superlative favorite continues to reign supreme in all its splendor.

Spinach salad further defines Hubbard’s creativity, pistachio

crusted Sonoma goat cheese and raspberry vinaigrette lending an

original twist to an old concept. As for unique entrees, what is more

original than grilled ostrich, a tasty, low-calorie protein posed

atop wild rice in green pepper port sauce sided with seasonal

vegetables.

It’s great to note pork increasingly gracing the menus of

prestigious restaurants. Here we find that tastiest of white meats as

a 14-ounce porterhouse in a chorizo crusting, coated with Dijon cream

sauce and complemented with roasted onion mashed potatoes, and a

roasted tenderloin version stuffed with walnut and cranberries in a

chipotle caramel sauce. Seafood palates may opt for ginger soy glazed

filet of rare ahi with coconut risotto and Asian vegetables;

macadamia crusted white sea bass in cherry beurre blanc and pearl

couscous; sauteed shrimp and scallops surrounding a mound of glass

noodles enhanced with wine and garlic, and such nightly quotes as

succulent swordfish individually prepared with du jour

accompaniments.

Covering the front for carnivores are varying preparations of

grilled beef chops and New York steaks. Pasta devotees are pampered

with a quintet of diversified stylings -- prime beef over egg noodles

in a burgundy stroganoff sauce with shallots and mushrooms; penne

with Italian veggies; angel hair sauteed with diced tomatoes, garlic

and parmesan; linguine and mushrooms in a creamy sauce of applewood

smoked bacon and sun-dried tomatoes. Starters are in the $5 to $12

range; entrees, $14 to $27.50, pastas, $11.50 to $16.50.

For your sweet tooth, pastry chef Joseph Damalouji is at the ready

with a quartet of delectable taste sensations at $6 and 7, not least

a warm chocolate torte with brandied cherry gelato, cherries jubilee

and shaved white chocolate.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.