Eddie Aikau would go

RICK FIGNETTI

The first big west swell finally started hitting the North Shore of

Hawaii the past few days. And when we think of big waves, we think of

the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Classic at Waimea Bay.

The specifications are that the surf be at least 20 feet, and in

true Hawaiian style that’s 40-foot faces. That’s pretty gnarly, and

there’s definitely a life-or-death situation going on out there.

There is the possibility of drowning or getting hit by your board and

being knocked out unconscious in the danger zone.

The art of big-wave riding has been helped a bit with hard-core

waterman on jet skies rescuing surfers in distress, but sometimes you

have to pay the price with the big wipe out and you’re on your own.

Winter time is when the storms go by up north -- by Alaska sending

down the Aleutian juice for the men who ride mountains.

The dates are already set, Dec. 5 to Feb. 28, for the waiting

period for the surfers who ride the huge ones.

Past winners that are in it include Aikau family member and

big-wave rider Clyde Aikau; Keoni Downing, son of one of the

legendary Hawaiian shapers; the Big Island’s Noah Johnson, who likes

those big wave outer reefs; the fearless Australian Ross Clarke

Jones; and the last Quicksilver “Eddie” winner, because Eddie would

go regardless of size, was none other than six-time world champ Kelly

Slater, showing, whether it’s two foot or 40 feet, that he is the

ultimate waterman.

Newcomers to the invited list are up-and-coming islanders, Makua

Rothman, who had that 50-foot plus wave at Jaws last winter, and big

wave Pipe standout Jamie Sterling.

Other veterans in it include: Aussies Tom Carrol and Paul

Paterson; Hawaiian’s top-16 standout Shane Dorian; the thickster,

Johnny Boy Gomes; the guy who’s had one of the largest waves ever

surfed at Choo-puu, Laird Hamilton; world champ and brother Andy and

Bruce Irons; Hawaiian legend and Triple Crown winner Michael Ho;

other Hawaiian legends, Buffalo’s two sons, Brian and Rusty Keaulana;

North Shore standouts Brock Little, Ross Williams, Mark Healy and the

Hui’s Myles Padaca; and West Coast big wave Mavericks riders Peter

Mel and Darryl “Flea” Virasco.

The alternate list is heavy too: outer-island ripper Titus

Kinimaka; power gouger Pancho Sullivan; Tahitian hellman “Poto” Vatea

David; Todos Santos standouts Mike “Snips” Parsons and Taylor Knox;

former world champ Sunny Garcia; Waimea lifeguard Darrick Doerner;

and Aussie vet Cheyne Horan.

Honorary members, who have passed away, and God Bless, are

Hawaiians Mark Foo and Todd Chesser and Santa Cruz’s Jay Moriarity,

who all had brave hearts.

Stay tuned for results when the swell is macking.

Sad news, locally, Huntington 16th street and Pier local surfer

for many years “J.S.” John Smith will be missed by many of the boys.

Big J.S. died of liver cancer earlier in the week after a hard-fought

battle.

We’ll see him in heaven one of these days riding perfect surf.

There’s going to be a memorial paddle out Saturday morning on the

north side of the Pier.

For more information contact, “Parmy” John Parmenter for more

details at 536-4101.

That’s it for now, see ya.

* RICK FIGNETTI is an eight-time West Coast champion, has

announced the U.S. Open of Surfing the last nine years and has been

the KROQ-FM surfologist for the last 17 years, doing morning surf

reports. He owns a surf shop on Main Street. You can reach him at

(714) 536-1058.