Beach House menu reigns supreme

Glori Fickling

Established in 1968 on the romantic ocean front site of the two-story

vacation home of late, famed actor-comedian Slim Summerville, the

Beach House has continuously gained momentum as a dining destination

for dedicated foodies seeking more than a wondrous vista of sprawling

sand and sea. This is a site for delicacies presented with artistic

flair -- the result of dedicated direction by the Pike family,

founder Gale and his wife Lenore, whose culinary artistry continues

to influence the menu. Their sons, Mathew and Noah, supervise a trio

of venues, which include equally picturesque seaside locations in

nearby Dana Point and farther south at Cardiff by the Sea.

The six-page vinyl-encased bill of fare is dominated by a wide

range of fresh seafood delicacies for which longtime chef Luis

Zorian’s impeccable timing ensures beautifully al dente denizens of

the briny every time out. All but one of the 14 provocative starters

is seafood based. Priced from $9 to $16, these commence with oysters

Rockefeller and steamed clams and continue with coconut shrimp-sea

scallop tempura.

An ahi stack alternates mango, avocado and snow crab with wasabi

beurre blanc and Zorian’s bountiful iced platter combines oysters,

clams, prawns, lobster claw and crab leg. When you crave a hot

beginning, nothing matches the huge bowl of plump New Zealand

mussels, prawns, Alaskan king and snow crab legs boasting a savory

broth perfumed with garlic, white wine, shallots and tomatoes. Sop

this up with the crusty loaf of sourdough presented on seating with a

shell of whipped butter or have it poured into a cup as an

additionally tantalizing preface. For only $3 a cup or $5 a bowl, you

may also enjoy velvety lobster bisque or creamy New England clam

chowder.

Beyond half a dozen fin fish such as pecan-encrusted Mexican wahoo

and baked halibut in lobster sauce, main courses encompass more than

a dozen shellfish and bivalves. Priced from $19 to about $30 with

several tabbed to market, most unusual of these is rich, creamy

lobster thermidor, a decade ago gourmet favorite featuring tender

diced lobster tail baked in its shell with fresh mushrooms scented

with tarragon, sherry and shallots, blanketed with velvety

hollandaise, parmesan and served with wild rice pilaf. Beyond, the

traditional New England clambake features one-pound Maine lobster

with little neck clams, a corn coblette and garlic mashed potatoes.

Or have the 1 1/2 pound version with drawn butter. Local lobster

tail comes in king and queen sizes and in combination with petite or

12-ounce filet mignon.

Augmenting all is a menu of lobster specialties. These include

lobster-stuffed artichoke, $12, and an imaginative-steamed enchilada

recipe scented with cilantro, garlic, onion and topped with a creamy

melt of jack cheese, $18. For the dedicated landlubber come French

cut New Zealand lamb chops, a 14-ounce New York strip steak, roast

prime rib in 12 and 16-ounce cuts, bacon-wrapped filet mignon in the

same size servings at $18 and $23 respectively. A delicious bargain

for $15 is chicken Marsala, delicately sauteed twin breasts sprinkled

with capers and mushrooms. Appropriately gracious service, currently

under direction of astute manager, Christian Williams, assures that

the kitchen is always amenable to switching a particular side dish,

no small feat considering that there are so many accompaniments of

customized potatoes, rice and pastas featured with assorted entrees.

For an interesting change of pace from alfresco seating at the

perimeter deck surrounding a pair of charming main dining rooms and

the intimate cocktail lounge, the quaint garden patio is a charming

surprise as one descends from the valet parking site. In addition to

a full list of cocktails including trendy martinis, there are more

than a dozen California wines served by the glass in an unusually

affordable $4 to $12 range, and by the bottle from $16 to $48. A

bonus attraction is the early bird dinner specials at reduced prices

weekdays from 4 to 7 p.m.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.