A perfectly priced addition to Laguna’s eateries

Glori Fickling

Just in time to ring in 2004, along came Pomodoro Cucina Italiano

finally bringing the restaurants of Forest Avenue full cycle. This

incarnation at 234 Forest Ave. is the inspired creation of dynamic

Adriano Paganini, who took over the long-vacated site of Vertical,

which is adjacent to award-winning 240 Forest.

The latest in a chain of 35 Italian trattorias, Paganini initially

launched in San Francisco exactly 10 years ago this month. Pomodoro

brings to Laguna Beach a menu of superlative Italian dishes so

affordably priced that it took locals no time to discover this

handsome new venue. On a Monday evening, following an unannounced

weekend opening, the place was alive with enthusiastic diners

enjoying the sidewalk tables, the bustling dining room, the wine bar

and dishes from the immaculate rear display kitchen illuminated with

imported, hand-blown ceiling-suspended ruby globes.

It is primarily the fabulous cuisine created by the enterprising

Paganini that will keep this inviting cucina busy. His recipes are

the result of formal training at the culinary institute in his native

Milan and his tenure in the kitchens of prestigious London and San

Francisco hotels. His first dining attraction was the upscale Cafe

Adriano, over which he presided for a quartet of years before selling

to concentrate fully on the burgeoning Pomodoro empire recently

expanded to south Orange County via Irvine and Newport Coast.

Step inside this newest trattoria, past the sidewalk patio and

stretch of glass doors and your taste buds will immediately be

tickled by the tantalizing aromas of fresh garlic, olive oil and

herbs. These are the seasonings permeating such treats as delectable

sauteed scampi in a wine-tomato based sauce and tender little Prince

Edward mussels, both presented in steaming iron skillets.

Palette-tickling polenta wrapping fontina cheese and spinach with

browned butter and sage leaves, calamari and zucchini zested with

chili flakes, grilled asparagus with pecorino Romano and arugula are

among servings crowned with garlicky grilled rustic bread -- great

for sopping up every last drop of these delectable juices. And we are

talking about $5 to $7.

A glance at the extensive bill of fare, which was coordinated with

local chef Nicola Sassone, assures that this is no mere pasta place,

though an octave of traditional old world favorites lists such as

lasagna, ravioli and other expected pasta dishes. Seafood is a

priority, with sauteed shrimp teamed with asparagus and pasta in a

light tomato-wine-cream sauce, and grilled salmon with spinach, white

beans, lemon and pesto.

Check out some house specialties, among which are bistecca e

rucola, a fork tender rib eye steak embellished with shaved pecorino

cheese, arugula and a side of Tuscan white beans. At $11.95, it is

the top tab as most entrees are less than $8 (soups and salads start

at $2.95 and $3.95). For $7.95, there are grilled Portobello

mushrooms and penne in cream sauce with grilled chicken, sausage and

roasted garlic as well as ravioli pocketing roasted butternut squash

in browned butter with crisp sage leaves and parmesan cheese -- these

are available in appetizer portions for $4.75.

Upon seating, a zesty dish of olive oil flecked with pesto herbs

is hurried to you with sliced Italian bread for delicious dipping.

Because this cuisine is so very flavorful, however, it precludes the

use of those smart little ebony and stainless steel salt and pepper

grinders on every wood-topped table. I am especially taken with the

trio of fragrantly seasoned fresh vegetable side dishes -- broccoli,

spinach and Brussels sprouts at $3.95 each. Almost everything is

available from a take-out menu including the trio of luscious

desserts at $4.25 -- tiramisu, panna cotta and mascarpone-ricotta

cheesecake. For $4.95 the warm chocolate souffle embellished with

chocolate sauce and whipped cream is obviously a dine-in only

surprise.

The general manager is lovely Robyn Nakamura, who presided over

the launching of the three newest Pomodoro’s and promises gracious

service from her hand-picked crew -- an impressively dedicated group

seemingly as enchanted with the menu as are the happy guests.

Framed black and white photos gracing the walls are an apt

reflection of life in Milan but, in tribute to our internationally

famed art community, are soon to be augmented with creations of our

very own local talents.

NEWS BITES

Valentine’s Day, it is promised, will finally bring about the

grand opening of long-awaited Hush. The restaurant is still under

construction on site of the former Mark’s on Coast Highway. Meantime,

its catering department is in full swing for private and corporate

parties. Phone 497-3616 for details.

Good news at the Holiday Inn is the re-opening of the Shoreline

Restaurant following a three-week hiatus when owners Tom and Susan

Wich took off for their annual Christmas tree farm doings in the city

of Orange. The engaging couple are henceforth serving breakfast,

lunch and dinner 24/7 and offering cocktail service until 2 a.m.

every day. Phone: 494-2102.