Prime time at Springdale Grille

Mary Furr

If Huntington Beach has a landmark full-service restaurant, it is

probably the Springdale Grille on Springdale Street just off Bolsa

Avenue, where prime rib rules for the many “gentleman diners” who

come from the nearby offices.

Opened in 1969 by Gus Harris as La Brique, it dropped its fancy

name and evolved into what it is today -- a great place to find Cook

Smiley Galgini’s prime rib and the quick and efficient attention of

our server Lori Rode, whose watchful eye pays attention to your empty

coffee cup.

Gus’ son, Nick, now has the Grille and has continued the

restaurant with the same bon ami that greets you as you open the door

on the bar and beyond to the dining room of comfortable vinyl booths,

which offer privacy and relaxation for the conversation of engineers

from nearby offices.

I selected -- what else? -- the prime rib sandwich ($9.45), an

open-face slice of nutrient-dense beef at least half-an-inch thick

and so tender on grilled cheese bread with wonderfully curly

matchstick fries, deep fried with a mildly spicy twist, which I could

nibble forever. It’s served with soup -- this day an excellent thick

split pea with bits of ham -- or salad, which is fresh and given a

special touch with homemade dressing.

Though beef is the staple at the Grille, the cod ($9.95) my friend

ordered with a champagne sauce is very good. It is served with

zucchini, carrots and rice pilaf. The fish, Icelandic cod, has a

mild, delicate flavor and is naturally low in calories with moist,

tasty flakes. The mild champagne sauce provides a perfect cover and

does not overwhelm the fish.

Desserts are my downfall, and here I had baked apple pie ($3.75)

with two scoops of ice cream. Its contrast of ice cream and warm

apple slices makes a good dessert. Though the crust could have been

firmer and flakier, it sort of melded in the apple slices.

The Grille is rather like a sanctuary, with a low ceiling and tiny

fairy lights draped around small plants. It’s the kind of place that

you get to know your server, who also gets to know your order. No

need for a menu here unless you want to be adventurous and choose

something else.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com.