Six years of Chinese cuisine

Glori Fickling

On the brink of China Bistro No. 1’s sixth anniversary Feb. 8,

principal Eric Chen and his lovely wife, Jocelyn, are celebrating the

occasion along with Chinese New Year of the Monkey, which will happen

on Jan. 22 -- somewhat earlier than usual.

Colorful placements depicting the Chinese Zodiac lend a festive

touch to the observance, replete with the delectable Mandarin and

Szechuan cuisines. You may discover your personal Chinese sign among

the dozen categories illustrated by checking the year of your birth

listed next to each animal pictured. Then, compute the time frame

using the continuing 12-year cycles.

What sets this handsome restaurant apart from most in this ethnic

category is the classic Roman style architecture, as distinctive as

the superb cuisine and warm hospitality. Tucked in a far corner of

Aliso Creek Shopping Center, the establishment’s menu offers more

than two dozen classifications of entrees and appetizers coupled with

several blackboard specials.

Enter the foyer, separated from the dining room with an etched

glass panel bearing the China Bistro No. 1 logo and flanked with

towering Romanesque columns. Then, check out the evening offerings

before settling into a cozy booth or one of the free-standing tables

illuminated with a trio of crystal chandeliers. The scene is

enticingly reflected in geometrically-framed mirrors gracing a side

wall. Four or five taste sensations will be featured, perhaps crisp

cylindrical shrimp egg rolls plump with mushroom, red pepper and

cilantro, $5.45; broccoli in oyster sauce, $7.50; filet mignon in

black pepper sauce, $12.95; or asparagus shrimp, $14.50.

Regulars familiar with this widely varied bill of fare are apt to

order a la carte or may leave their choices up to the hosts.

Newcomers, to simplify ordering, may refer to the prix fixe gourmet

dinners or the five-course lunch menu available until 4 p.m.

Reflecting a repertoire of the main menu, two different dinners for

two or more persons are $12.95 and $14.50 each. These include a

choice of 12 entrees plus crunchy wonton noodles, steamed rice, tea,

almond and fortune cookies. The first commences with hearty hot and

sour or creamy chicken-corn soup, an egg roll, fried wonton and

paper-wrapped chicken. The second dinner is prefaced with wonton soup

and appetizers of fried shrimp, an egg roll, paper-wrapped chicken

and fried wontons.

Main courses vary on both of these:

“A” offers pork chop suey, vegetable tofu with garlic sauce, beef

with broccoli, Mongolian beef and seven chicken choices including moo

goo gai pan, almond, kung pao, lemon, vegetable and sizzling hot

plate.

“B” entrees feature such seafood attractions as lemon scallops,

beef scallops with vegetables and a quintet of shrimp dishes -- with

garlic or lobster sauce, cashew nuts, sweet-sour, and combined with

beef, chicken and mixed veggies. It is noted that hot entrees starred

on both menus will be altered to suit individual palates.

Midday fare doesn’t get more interesting nor reasonable than the

33 selections available here. Each main course starts with a small

salad and hot and sour or egg drop soup, as well as an egg roll,

fried rice, steaming tea, almond and fortune cookies. An octave of

seafood attractions at $6.95 and $7.50 includes Hunan spicy shrimp,

chop suey with shrimp, beef, chicken, garlic, vegetable and aromatic

shrimp. Two dozen poultry tastes, half of which are spicy, are $6.25

and $6.75. There is chicken enhanced with pineapple, lemon, garlic,

vegetables and more.

Pork aficionados may select shredded pork with hot garlic sauce,

barbecue pork with asparagus, pork low mein or sweet sour, $5.95 to

$6.95. Half a dozen beef dishes at $6.25 to $6.95 include Mongolian,

broccoli, asparagus, mixed vegetables, low mein noodles and sliced

beef with black bean sauce. Vegetarians, for $5.75, may choose veggie

tofu, vegetable low mein, mixed vegetables and savory mu shu.

There’s something for everyone, indeed!

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.