How best to cut back on the roses

Steve Kawaratani

“You’ve got to prune from year to year

To get Results or Roses.”

-- WITH APOLOGIES

TO EDGAR GUEST

“You can complain because roses have thorns, or you can rejoice

because thorns have roses.”

-- ZIGGY

It’s that time of year again, the thorny issue of pruning roses is

upon us. Timing, as Catharine has told me (more than twice), is very

important. Rosarians understand that winter/spring pruning is

completed to allow the rose to rest, new growth is then stimulated by

warmer weather, ultimately bringing beautiful flowers. But for those

of us who garden in Laguna, be assured that your roses may be pruned

anytime during the next two months.

The fear of rose pruning is unnecessary. Armed with Felco

secateurs (or another pair of sharp hand shears) and goatskin gloves,

this annual ritual is one of the most rewarding. Roses are forgiving

and will endure a beginner’s uncertain cuts. Over time, gardeners

develop pruning skills and discover it is difficult to prune a rose

incorrectly.

We prune for the health of the rose. Pruning shapes the bush into

an attractive form and prepares the rose for the anticipated blooming

that follows within weeks. Hybrid teas and floribundas are the most

popular of roses and don’t require heavy pruning in Laguna. Keep in

mind that about a third of the plant will be trimmed. The first step

is to remove any dead wood. Next, cut out all weak stems and growth

that are growing toward the center of the rose. The ideal structure

is an open bush, with five to 10 remaining canes growing in an

outward direction.

Sealing major cuts with pruning paint, nail polish, or white glue

can prevent insects and diseases from entering the plant and loss of

vital sap.

Any cut more than 1/2 inch in diameter should be sealed whenever

it is made. In practice, the location on a cane for your cut should

be above a bud eye (the site where new growth appears), which is

pointing upward and outward.

The cut should be made 1/4 inch above the eye and angled at 45

degrees down and away. The new stem will then grow toward sunlight

and fresh air. If you can’t find a bud eye, follow the strategy of

cutting the cane back about a third.

Climbers require different pruning. Many of them will flower only

on second year laterals. If these canes are removed, there will be no

flowers that year. I follow and recommend the philosophy of stripping

all of the leaves and pruning back only growth that has extended

beyond intended confines. Of course, any damaged or dead canes should

be removed. Follow these instructions and climbers will provide a

good display of flowers each year.

I’m scrambling today’s deadlines, reviewing designs, and getting

Catharine to the airport. I pass a get-well wish to my friend, Mike

Doty. Patience, buddy, you’ll be home soon! See you next time.

* STEVE KAWARATANI is the owner of Landscapes by Laguna Nursery,

1278 Glenneyre St. in Laguna Beach. He is married to local artist,

Catharine Cooper, and has three cats. He can be reached at (949)

497-2438 or e-mail to landscapes@ ln.coxatwork.com.