Splashes making waves with cheese tasting

Glori Fickling

One of the more innovative dining concepts introduced recently in

Orange County is the series of cheese-tasting dinners being

showcased in Splashes restaurant at the Surf and Sand Resort, which

recently completed a multimillion-dollar enhancement to guest rooms

and spa facilities.

These dinners constitute a four-month program, which was launched

on Jan. 1 in tribute to the heritage of California’s 200-year-old

cheese industry. California leads the nation as the maker of cow’s

milk cheeses boasting in excess of 60 producers who turn out 200

varieties of artisan cheeses, some of which earned an unparalleled 30

awards at the American Cheese Society’s 2003 national competition. To

celebrate this first-time event, the resort’s executive chef

Christopher Blobaum has designed a plethora of original recipes to

honor the skill and craft of the California cheese industry.

Featuring several different makers each month, Blobaum will

culminate the program in April with an “Elite Tasters Trubute,” a

festive finale gala. Those who attended the kickoff Cheese Tasting

Menu last month were rewarded with a culinary experience inspired by

the first and second place winners at last year’s competition.

Featured were Winchester cheese Company’s gouda cheese recipes

created by Blobaum including a gouda cheese filo with asparagus tips,

smoked gouda cannelloni and pan-roasted veal loin stuffed with gouda

and basil. A superlative entree among four-course prix fixe menus

served later in January was a succulent veal rack chop sided with

savory whole milk gouda enriched polenta. Prefacing courses were corn

fritters in an arugula salad enhanced with Winchester-aged gouda and

the Winchester-smoked gouda defining a tempting square of lasagna.

Though each course is available a la carte, the $60 prix fixe tariff

also included a ginger poached pear finale spiked with Pt. Reyes

original bleu cheese, crisp pistachios and candied ginger.

Launching February’s dining extravaganzas are Bellwether Farms

award-winning entries. In March, we look forward to the multiple

award-winning farmhouse cheeses of Three Sisters Farmstead Cheese as

well as Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company’s products. For the

April finale, there will be chef Blobaum’s culinary creations

highlighting Cowgirl Creamery’s 2003 American Cheese Society Best of

Show cheeses. What is remarkable about these promotional dinners,

which augment Splashes nightly menus, is that they are enlightening

diners on how various cheeses give so surprising and unusual a flavor

burst to the most ordinary staples.

As part of the fascinating Cheesemaker Series, the Surf and Sand

Resort has designed a provocative package encompassing several facets

of its many services. Featuring a one-night stay at the hotel, with

an additional night optional, the $399 tariff will pamper two guests

with a cheese tasting menus at Splashes, a cheese omelet breakfast

cordially served via room service and a 25-minute “Happy California

Cow” milk bath treatment for two in the resort’s pampering Aquaterra

Spa.

Guests availing themselves of any of the cheese-taster dinners in

Splashes will be rewarded with the fascinating ambience of the ocean

front dining attraction where the surf sometimes laps tantalizingly

against the windows. Additionally, they will receive 25% off the

California Cheese Affair April finale party. The celebration, to be

announced on Valentine’s Day, will feature a menu of appetizers

followed by a full-course dinner and an introduction to the

individual cheese producers who will personally share products,

recipes, history, discuss ideal wine pairings and generally

communicate their thoughts.

For those diners who participate in all four of the monthly menus,

an invitation will be extended to enjoy this spectacular evening of

dining compliments of the Resort’s genial food and beverage manager,

Peter Van Winke, who promises an unforgettable celebration of

superlative cuisine for cheese aficionados and for inquisitive

foodies of every ilk.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.