The touch of Claes is a regal crown at Hotel

Glori Fickling

A Laguna Beach landmark dating back to the late 1800s, Hotel Laguna

has hosted such illustrious turn-of-the-century luminaries as motion

picture stars Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Humphrey Bogart and

Errol Flynn. While the restaurant, which boasts an unparalleled view

of the blue Pacific, has undergone innumerable incarnations over the

decades, none in the past has been more upscale than the present

incarnation, Claes.

Named for principal, Claes Anderson, who acquired the property in

1986, the sophisticated dining room is noted for its specialty

seafood preparations and prime steaks. Anderson’s menu credo, “the

cuisine should provide the pleasure, the wine happiness,” reflects

his dedication to wines in both his private and restaurant cellars. A

phenomenal 10,000 bottles are listed in the restaurant’s

comprehensive book, many handsomely showcased in the little gem of a

wine cellar, an intimate room available for parties up to 10.

The opulent dining room, against a background of rolling surf

beyond the sand-fronted windows, is enhanced with impeccable

amenities. Beautiful service platters are an introduction to the

elegant China to come, each shining dish gracefully encircled with a

curled fish border. Plates and bowls are designed in imaginative

shapes to complement individual appetizers, entrees and desserts.

Butter is in little silver-domed ramekins. Accompanying breads are

graciously proffered by waiters ever at the ready to anticipate

guest’s desires.

Recently appointed executive chef David E. Mack, who arrived by

way of the Four Seasons Hotel, has orchestrated a comprehensive bill

of fare in conjunction with chef de cuisine Josh Gil and sous chef

Jon Dwyer. The team has also created provocative introductory bites

to tantalize guests as they peruse menus. A recent complimentary

morsel was luscious smoked trout perched on tiny endive leaves, a

tasty teaser with a cocktail or a glass of wine.

Among a dozen innovative preludes at $8 to $17, is a quartet of

signature dishes marked with the Claes signature. There is lobster

bisque en croute, Florida rock shrimp cakes, house smoked salmon and

seared scallops, the latter in curried butter sauce with fried fennel

and serrano ham crisps. Aficionados of steamed mussels will be

impressed with the tender plump black bivalves presented here in a

capacious bowl, the accompanying broth enhanced with smoked extra

virgin olive oil and herbs de Provence, all generously studded with

crunchy pine nuts, briny capers and bits of fresh tomato.

Wine-pairing suggestions are listed with meticulously orchestrated

main courses. The octave of entrees comes fresh from the ocean for

$29 to $33, at market price for 1 1/2 pound Maine lobster roasted in

butter. This, sided with asparagus, morel mushrooms, pad Thai noodles

in lobster cognac sauce, is most noteworthy among Claes seafood

specialties.

Not to be overlooked, either, is oven-roasted sole with

langoustines picturesquely presented in a huge round tilted bowl

which expedites placing shells neatly out of the way at uppermost

area of the dish. A whole langoustine lavishly crowns the lemongrass

broth-seasoned presentation sided with fresh asparagus spears.

Land selections include steaks, lamb, pork and veal. Claes marked

specialties are grilled hanger steak and lobster tempura with Asian

slaw, jasmine risotto cake and kung pao glaze; and a 9-ounce prime

filet of beef au poivre seasoned with Szechwan peppercorn sauce,

truffle potato risotto, butter poached baby vegetables embellishing

the dish.

Rounding out meat categories are rack of lamb, veal chops, porcini

crusted pork tenderloin and prime grade New York steak, each defined

with individually imaginative accompaniments. Pork tenderloin, for

instance, poses lean plump pink morsels on a huge, rippled square

plate that frames a mashed potato rosette sprouting slender scallion

slivers next to a mound of corn/sunchoke hash, all resting on a pool

of savory mushroom laden sauce.

An impressive grand finale is the picturesque platter of assorted

confections and ice creams embellished with a white chocolate sail

detailed with swirls of dark chocolate. On Friday and Saturday nights

you may enjoy coffee and after-dinner drinks in the lounge where

charming Shannon Parks and John Walsh entertain guests in a cozy,

living room style setting replete with crackling fireplace, cushy

couches, lovely table lamps and pretty paintings.

A sunny ambience pervades Claes daytimes when a few favorite

dinner entrees are offered at considerably lesser prices along with

tempting salads, sandwiches and appetizers. Sunday brunch for $18

features assorted buffet treats and a choice of eleven table d’hote

entrees.

News Bites

Another of those surprise box suppers at (seven degrees) prefaced

the second Thursday Cinema event in March. Complementing a

Cubano-themed movie, Anastasia Cafe executive chef Jerry Baker wowed

guests with big, square Kalamata olive bread sandwiches stuffed with

roast pork, ham and sided with a delectable black bean and corn salad

intoxicatingly dressed with roasted tomatillos and habanera-chili

vinaigrette. Fruit studded pina colada macaroons accompanied decaf

for a sweet apres-movie treat. Phone 497-8903 or 497-1212.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.