Modern romanticism defines Romeo Cucina

Glori Fickling

It has been 12 successful years since Romeo Cucina debuted on

Broadway in Downtown Laguna Beach.

The artistic culinary creation of dynamic Vittorio Romeo, this

handsomely attractive restaurant features the delicious cuisine of

Southern Italy. Specifically the food centers on the fresh fish,

legumes and produce indigenous to the fertile region of Calabria,

birthplace of the charming Romeo himself who admirably likens our

town to the picturesque Italian city.

That the ristorante was totally refurbished last year in

celebration of its 11th anniversary tells much about the aesthetics

of its owner, since the place was already known for its colorfully

romantic decor. Both creative endeavors are the result of Romeo’s

education in Florence, where he studied avidly at the University of

Florence.

Step inside, past diners enjoying the sidewalk patio and be

enchanted with the warmly embracing ambience that commences with rich

burnt orange walls and ceiling, continuing with seat cushions and

lush drapes that dramatically separate tables positioned against one

side. The same embracing color continues for slanted floor-to-ceiling

panels adorned with handcrafted cone lights, each crowned with an

individual ceramic form. The panels separate tables for dramatic

definition to the room designed by architect Robert Michaelson in

conjunction with Romeo. Two beautiful paintings by local artist Marlo

Bartell add another aesthetic touch.

A central brick pizza oven at the entrance is surrounded by a

polished granite bar, a similar arrangement, sans oven, is repeated

for the rear cocktail bar. Both are available for dining and are

especially popular with singles seeking friendly camaraderie. In

delightful contrast is an intimate corner dining niche framed with

closeable drapes, an appealing setting for romantic tete a tetes.

All things considered, however, it is the superlative cuisine that

has kept the place busy this dozen years. Romeo’s talented brother

Antonio is executive chef and he keeps the kitchen busily humming

following the principles of the family’s Calabria ristorante. “We

deliver passion” states the menu and the palate-tickling selection of

appetizers attests to this quote many times over. Among nine choices

priced from $5.95 to $10.95, you will rejoice to the taste of such

delicacies as scottata di tonno. These are lightly seared slices of

ahi bedded atop delectable vinaigrette seasoned greens. Frittura

mista is a deep fried selection of tender, crisp crusted calamari,

shrimp, tuna and swordfish morsels with spicy marinara sauce. Polenta

con fungi teams succulent porcini and wild mushrooms with yummy

squares of grilled Venetian cornmeal. And carciofo ripieno translates

to artichokes stuffed with artichoke hearts, tomato, garlic-sprinkled

bread crumbs and parsley vinaigrette.

Half a dozen salads range from a simple toss of romaine, red

onions, tomatoes, cucumber, chevre and mint in a light house dressing

going to $10.95 for a Mediterranean combination of lime-lemon

marinated crustaceans with hearts of palm, tomatoes, scallions,

arugula deliciously tossed with garlic and olive oil. Minestrone and

a light, lovely soup of clams, mussels, shrimp, calamari with veggies

and herbs are $5.95 and $9.95 respectively.

Meat, poultry and seafood entrees are priced from $15.95 to

$19.95. These run another tasty gamut. Breaded chicken breast is

heaped with marinated tomatoes, garlic, arugula, mozzarella with

buttery angel hair pasta, grilled pork chops are in spicy peppercorn

sauce over fettuccine with porcini mushrooms in truffle oil. The

porterhouse steak is grilled with shitake mushrooms, tomato and

sliced parmigiana. And for ossobuco alla romana, the sauteed veal

shank is sauced with fresh tomato and mixed vegetables on a heap of

fettuccine.

Brick oven baked pizzas account for a whopping 15 varieties at

around $12 each. As many favorite pastas are $10.95 to $14.95. The

light and lovely angel hair is lavished with shrimp and scallops in

zesty cream sauce. Hefty linguine arrives with clams and mussels

tossed with olive oil and white wine. Chewy little bow ties are

embraced with smoked salmon, capers, mascarpone and a briny sprinkle

of caviar. The chewy bread presented with savory olive dip is baked

in the same brick oven as the flavorsome pizzas.

Suggestions and questions for this column may be e-mailed to

ghoneywest@aol.com or phone (949) 494-4710. GLORI FICKLING has been

writing restaurant news and views for many newspapers and magazines

since 1966.