Ti Amo celebrates 10 glorious years

Glori Fickling

It was no April Fool joke when Ti Amo Ristorante debuted in South

Laguna 10 years ago on the site of a one-time 1928 vintage home. On

the first day of April in 1994, this beautiful dinner house opened to

become the first to make a major success on the property following

the demise of several short-lived dining venues over the many decades

following.

Ti Amo is the fascinating creation of Robert Castoro, who designed

the handsome Italian style villa and his beautiful wife Martine. Her

expertise shows impressively in her choice of warm colors, fine

fabrics, elegant candelabras and the magnificent Michael Angelo-style

paintings she created to vibrantly adorn ceilings and walls.

Lauded for its tasteful ambience and the creative cuisine of chef

Enrique Martinez, this splendiferous three-story attraction offers

wonderfully diversified seating areas. Formality reigns supreme on

the upper levels where a small alfresco patio provides an ocean view.

The more casual setting downstairs is reminiscent of a colorful

European garden.

To further enchant guests in the near future, a new dimension will

hopefully be added via an attractive lounge and stylish waiting

areas, which are in the planning stages. This will be especially

appreciated by the restaurant’s faithful following because at

present, the sole wait station is outside the side entrance where a

single sofa reposes beneath the impressive display of framed media

accolades.

An excursion to Ti Amo inevitably brings new surprises. On a

recent visit we were greeted upon seating with delicious little

appetizers of duck confit wrapped in tiny cones of sesame seeds, a

tasty treat with cocktails that were instantly expedited. Soon came a

basket of crusty bread and a bowl of creamy olive tapenade. Among

recent menu additions was an entree of hoisin marinated seafood, a

grilling of shrimp, scallops and fish heaped over coconut saffron

rice with a taste of papaya and the crunch of almonds. Equally

enticing was the antipasti of tuna tartare, a superb stack of rare

ahi tossed with capers and onions in a citrus marinade crowned with

wasabi caviar and a an unexpected little mound of mango sorbet that

melted delectably into the unusual treat.

There are usually half a dozen inventive specials nightly, two

each of seafood, poultry and meats. This is where Martinez really

stretches his culinary skills. To showcase a rare chunk of top

sirloin, for example, he beds the meat on a delicious slice of

breaded eggplant, then sides the thick juicy cut with a round of

ravioli encasing a yummy minced shrimp mixture. Rack of lamb arrives

as a fabulous fan of six succulent chops adorned with crisp asparagus

spears and a hefty mound of garlic mashed potatoes.

The dinner bill of fare commences with 10 antipasti selections

priced from $6.50 for $12.95. Lobster bisque with scallop carpaccio

is among winning starters that further include carpaccio di manzo --

raw beef tenderloin sparked with roasted peppers, shaved parmesan

capers and lemon; cozzole con agllio e vino -- mussels steamed in

saffron fennel, wine, garlic, capers, tomatoes, herbs; and Napoleon

di funghi -- puff pastry stacked with mushrooms, tomatoes, Madiera

shallots and thyme. There are seven insalatas, not least the unique

Cesare, a crisp edible asiago wafer bowl heaped with a toss of

romaine, anchovies, roast peppers and rosemary polenta croutons.

Pastas, which are available in half orders as first course tastes,

range from $14.95 for rigatoni con salsiccia e pepperoni to $19.95

for gnocchi con basilica, the plump little garlic-infused dumplings

tossed with spicy tiger shrimp in tomato-basil marinara. There are 11

seconde piatti, superb seafood, poultry and meat courses at $16.95 to

$22.95.

Veal scaloppine comes with Marsala and wine and again with lemon,

capers, artichokes and wine. Pork tenderloin boasts a Napoleon

preparation with sauteed cinnamon apples, dried fruit chutney and

maple balsamic glaze. Paella alla Valenciana is a heady saffron broth

combining jumbo shrimp, mussels, clams, fish, sausage and chicken

over tender Spanish basmati rice.

For a grand finale, luscious tiramisu at $6.95 leads a delectable

list of tantalizing sweets and a full range of cordials, liqueurs and

coffee drinks.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.