Coyote Grill is steps above Mexican fare

Glori Fickling

When enterprising Kim “Coyote” Bryant launched his popular Coyote

Grill in 1989 on the site of the former Cove Cafe in South Laguna, he

introduced to locals an authentic taste of Baja. The grill is now the

domain of his talented daughter, Desiree, since Bryant migrated to

Hawaii to become successful builder, the restaurant will celebrate a

happy 15th anniversary on Aug. 30.

Beyond its start as a charming little diner with a small kitchen,

Coyote Grill now opens up to a thatched roof cocktail lounge that’s a

buzz of activity, especially at happy hour. Inside a trio of colorful

rooms includes a spacious patio with overhead heaters, all looking

out to verdant gardens and the blue Pacific. Colorful gourds and

assorted artifacts add a festive south-of-the-border flavor to the

enjoyment of breakfast, lunch and dinner guests.

The cuisine has come a long way since opening day, implementing a

plethora of Southwestern dishes as well as Mexican fare with accent

on steaks and seafood. One popular dish which has remained on the

menu since day one is a throwback to the predecessor cafe. It is the

Cove chicken circa 1968, a real Southern fried version served “with

all the trimmings.”

Coyote Grill has its own version of poultry cookery, however, in

the guise of its Drunken chicken. This one “fell into a pot of

tequila -- and the rest is history,” quotes the menu, the flavorfully

brown-skinned one half bird cut into pieces and grilled to

falling-off-the-bone tenderness. As with most items on the bill of

fare, it is available Mexican style with beans and rice or Gringo

style with garlic mashed or baked potato and a medley of jullienned

vegetables. You may even mix and match any of the above to suit your

taste of the moment.

Upon seating, a covered container of hot tortillas will appear on

your table along with spicy pickled veggies, salsa and butter. To

further whet appetites, 10 delicious starters are offered beginning

at $2.50 for an oyster shooter, $1 more with tequila or vodka, going

to $10.95 for ahi carpaccio. The latter is a hands-down winner,

thinly sliced rare blackened slices drizzled with capers, lemon and

olive oil. Coconut shrimp, also listed as an entree, is another hit,

a quintet of big prawns deep fried under a crunchy coat of

coconut-beer batter. For an unforgettable vegetarian treat the tasty

charbroiled combination of eggplant, zucchini, squash with red onion,

tomato and scallions is unbeatable.

Dinner entrees priced from $8.50 to $16.95, embrace a dazzling

variety -- tacos, fajitas, burritos, enchiladas, tostadas to steaks,

ribs, seafood and lobster priced to market seasonally. These are

always augmented with nightly finfish quotes. Ahi, halibut, sand

dabs, salmon, swordfish were some of the fresh catches noted recently

prefaced with soup or salad and prepared blackened or simply broiled

and accompanied with above selections.

A word must be mentioned regarding Coyote Grill’s breakfast menu

because the choices captivate enthusiastic crowds especially on

weekends. Going from such Laguna favorites as two eggs any style with

fish, steak, a burger or pancakes and bacon, ham or sausage, these

include fries or black beans and toast or tortillas. There are Baja

specials offering such as chorizo, chiliquilas and burritos; a full

range of omelets and eggtras -- French toast to Benedicts to waffles.

Then there is the famed oatmeal sundae deliciously spiked with

cinnamon, raisins, brown sugar, bananas, nuts and a decadent crown of

whipped cream. These range from $4.95 to $10.95 with most averaging

around $8. What a way to start the day.

NEWS BITES

Save the date. On April 30 a special Cheese Tasting banquet will

be held on the spectacularly remodeled Catalina Terrace at Surf &

Sand Resort.

The event, prefaced with a cocktail reception from 7 to 8 p.m.

culminates the series of Cheese Tasting Dinners featured at Splashes

restaurant early in February. A lavish four-course dinner will be

augmented with informal talks by executive chef Christopher Blobaum

and producers from the California cheese industry who will be on hand

to share products, recipes, history and suggested wine pairings.

Cost for the event is $95 a person non-inclusive. Diners who

participated in the four-month cheese tasting dinner program are

being rewarded with complimentary tickets to the banquet. For further

information, please phone (949) 497-4477.