Hawaii, Europe and Asia all in one roll

Greer Wylder

When Roy’s Restaurant arrived at Fashion Island nearly five years

ago, it was the talk of the town. Getting a reservation required

patience. It still does. The deserved hype came from the reputation

of its founder, celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi, who masterfully

combines Hawaiian cuisine with classic French, Asian and Italian

cooking. Roy’s first restaurant opened in Honolulu in 1988, and now

there are more than 30 locations worldwide.

Roy is a risk-taking chef and his restaurant reflects his

adventurous spirit. For instance, last year Roy’s debuted a value

dinner, a three-course prix fixe dinner for just $30. In March, a

12-seat sushi bar was installed. And on Mother’s Day the restaurant

will extend its regular hours and add a special prix fixe brunch for

$30.

Roy’s Newport Beach culinary success also comes from executive

chef-partner Chris Garnier, who apprenticed with Yamaguchi in

Honolulu. Garnier changes the majority of selections daily. Roy’s

signature dishes remain. A few of those include appetizers like

wood-grilled, Szechwan-spiced, baby-back pork ribs ($10); and

delicious Hawaiian-style ahi poketani ($11). Favorite entrees include

Hawaiian-style misoyaki butterfish with sizzling soy, tri-pepper

vinaigrette ($25); and Roy’s original blackened island ahi with spicy

soy mustard butter ($27). One of the best appetizers is Garnier’s

creation, a panko-crusted calamari with Szechwan sauce, cilantro and

candied macadamia nuts ($9).

For first-timers, try a sample of Roy’s premium cuisine by

ordering the three-course prix fixe dinner. It features three

best-selling appetizers -- shrimp stick, spicy Szechwan baby-back rib

and crisped lobster potsticker. For entrees, choose from four

classics in full-size portions. Roy’s artistically prepared entrees

are always stacked, then presented in layers. The starch (usually

rice) is the base, the meat makes the center, and the vegetable rests

on top. Sauces swirl on the plate around the towering entree. Choices

include tender braised misoyaki-glaze (fermented soybean paste) pork

pot roast with gingered apple sauce; a roasted macadamia nut Hawaiian

mahi-mahi with Maine lobster essence; a slow-braised and then

charbroiled beef shortribs; or hibachi-grilled salmon with Japanese

vegetables and citrus ponzu.

Save room for dessert. Roy’s offers its signature melting hot

chocolate souffle -- a flour-less, rich chocolate cake, balanced with

vanilla ice cream, semi-sweet chocolate and raspberry sauce (Guests

come in just for this souffle). Or try the delicious caramel

macadamia nut almond tart, also served with vanilla ice cream. With

Roy’s new sushi bar, diners have additional options.

“The beauty of the sushi bar is that the whole dinner menu is also

available there,” manager Tim Lowenberg said. “One guest can have

sushi; the other can have a rib-eye steak.” And throughout the

restaurant, even at the bar, guests can order sushi or the full menu.

The sushi menu emphasizes fresh Hawaiian seafood and incorporates

Roy’s classic and modern culinary themes. Fusion sushi items include

a Hawaiian big-eye tuna tartar flavored with delicate pine nuts and

garlic chipotle aioli ($12); sizzling island sashimi with peanut

truffle oil and inamona (crushed, roasted kukui nut) just ($15 to

$16). Try sushi chef Lorin Watada’s signature creation, the Lakanilau

roll ($17). The flame-torched Kobe beef is wrapped around Dynamite

(seven-spice aioli) crab with tempura asparagus, avocado and topped

with micro greens. It’s outstanding.

Although Roy’s serves dinner only, the restaurant opens early for

a Mother’s Day brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. May 9. The special menu

begins with a choice of appetizers that includes a Yamaguchi soy nori

rice-less hand rolled wrap; lobster, clam and corn chowder; crispy

crab and lobster rangoons; or seasonal fruit and garden salad. Entree

choices include Roy’s original crab-cake eggs Benedict; oven-roasted

and chevre- crusted salmon steak; curry-braised short ribs; and

chilled baby-lobster mache and frisee salad. For dessert, enjoy a

Mother’s Day three-chocolate sampler-chocolate and macadamia nut

torte; milk chocolate and raspberry tart; and white chocolate orange

panna cotta. Moms will also receive a complimentary Hawaiian Bird of

Paradise.

Roy’s still has reservations available for the brunch, but if the

restaurant’s five-year history is a guide, you won’t want to delay in

reserving a table. Roy’s remains, deservedly, one of the most popular

dining spots in town.

Bluewater Grill Seafood Restaurant hosts a fun “Steamers and Beer”

dinner at 6:30 p.m. TuesdayIt offers delicious Manila clams prepared

three ways: Steamed in white wine, garlic and butter; Pacific Rim

style in green chili, lemon grass and coconut milk; and Portuguese

style with marinara and Linguica sausage. Three beer tastes include

Widmer Hefeweizen, Firestone Double Barrel Ale and Anchor Steam. (A

selection of Firestone Wines is also available.) It costs $19.95 per

person. Bluewater Grill Restaurant is at 630 Lido Park Drive, Newport

Beach; call (949) 675-3474; and at South Coast Plaza Village, 1621 W.

Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana; call (714) 546-3474.

To celebrate Mother’s Day, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar

opens at 4 p.m. Sunday, May 9. It’s a perfect restaurant to honor Mom

on her special day. It offers high-quality foods and premium wines --

more than 100 available by the glass. And there’s a Fleming’s wine

flight-three samplings. For starters, choose from shrimp and lobster

cocktail or lump crab cakes, followed by Fleming’s classic Caesar or

chopped salad. For an entree, try its excellent signature eight-ounce

prime petite filet mignon; or its seared rare ahi tuna mignon, served

with poppy seed au poivre and tomato sherry vinaigrette. The

special-occasion dessert choice is chocolate lava cake, and there’s

also Fleming’s assorted cheese plate or fresh seasonal mixed berries.

Fleming’s is at Fashion Island, 455 Newport Center Drive, Newport

Beach. Contact (949) 720-9633 or https://www.flemingssteakhouse. com

for more information.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.