Sushi: the choice of a new generation

Greer Wylder

“New generation sushi,” a phrase coined by executive chef James

Hamamori at WaSa Sushi expands basic sushi and Japanese cuisine to a

higher level. While staying committed to traditional Japanese dishes,

it introduces different sauces, garnishes and preparations. It’s

enticing to all sushi-loving types. A few of its trademarks include

custom, homemade sauces for fish, spindly shredded beets for

garnishes and combinations of wasabi and smelt egg for tobiko caviar.

Chef Hamamori trained in Tokyo. Then in the early 1970s he joined

a team of chefs working in New York on this evolving sushi concept.

Eventually, as chef at Asakuma on Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles,

Hamamori gained notoriety for his culinary skills. For 13 years he

helped make Asakuma one of the West side’s top Japanese restaurants.

His celebrity clientele included Michael Ovitz, Dustin Hoffman and

Cindy Crawford. Now in Orange County he’s listed among the Star

Chefs, a group of celebrated chefs committed to raising funds for the

March of Dimes; and he’s a member of the Great Chefs of Orange

County, an annual gourmet event benefiting the National Kidney

Foundation of Southern California. Each day Hamamori divides his time

between WaSa’s original Irvine location and its newest restaurant,

WaSa Sushi On The Bluffs in Newport Beach.

Wasa Sushi On The Bluffs is the only nonfast food restaurant in

the new Bluffs Shopping Center. It fills the gap for those looking

for high quality, fresh foods in a relaxed atmosphere. A stylish

contemporary design features a Birdseye maple sushi bar that seats

16; dining tables seat 20. Handmade pottery plates made exclusively

for WaSa elegantly show off arranged dishes, and at night bright

lights dim to accentuate the azure glow of the ceiling.

Hamamori employs his motto “There are many things you can do with

sushi” daily at WaSa. For his “treasure” dishes, he lightly sears

yellowtail then garnishes it with jalapeno and garlic ponzu; sears

fatty toro (choice tuna belly) and serves it with matchstick

scallions and grated ginger; and sears jumbo scallops with wasabi

sour cream. And since his sauces are layered in flavors from garlic,

ginger, concentrated ponzu and bonito flakes, the biggest insult

inflicted on him is to watch a customer douse soy sauce on sushi.

His signature appetizers include a Bluefin tuna martini served in

a martini glass with wasabi sour cream and green tobiko caviar

($10.50). A uni (sea urchin) shooter, fresh delicate uni with grated

yamaimo potato (mountain yam), crunchy masago (flying fish roe),

quail egg and ponzu ($6.95); and a WaSa special, smoked salmon and

crab rolled in translucent cucumber, served with ponzu ($12.50). Hot

appetizers include crispy calamari served with tangy yuzu miso

dipping sauce ($7.95); and Dynamite, a jumbo scallop, giant clam,

mushroom, onion baked in a creamy lightly spiced sauce, served with

crostini ($9.50)

Other specialties include a rare sea urchin risotto with grilled

spot prawns and pineneedle seaweed ($12.50); and baby abalone with

Elingi mushroom shishito and asparagus in tangy red miso ($12.50).

Excellent Chilean sea bass marinated in soy and red wine, glazed and

served with fresh raspberries ($14.95); and a sterling silver rib eye

marinated in sake, soy and mirin, then grilled to order and served

with sauteed Japanese mushroom ($18.95)

Desserts are another passion of Hamamori, a closet pastry chef.

For six months he trained with French chef/owner Tomi Harase at Cafe

Blanc in Beverly Hills. So WaSa’s dessert menu stands above most

Japanese restaurants that only serve common green tea ice cream and

mochi. It features green tea cheesecake with fresh berries ($5.95); a

light sweet potato flan ($5.95); banana spring roll served with

choice of vanilla, green tea or red bean ice cream and fresh berries

($5.95).

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.